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2 questions re: putting horses on a diet & vitamins

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1) My farrier said my 2 mares were fat, and I agree. My husband is in the military and gone most of the time. I don't feel safe riding alone, so they end up not being ridden as much as they should be. Neither of them know how to longe, otherwise I'd be doing that daily.

They are on pasture in summer and hay in winter (NO GRAIN). Is there a way to put them on a "diet" of some sort?? Next spring/summer, I'm going to stall them during the day and turn them out at night. Perhaps that will help?

2) Because of bad weather, I'm afraid our hay isn't going to be as good as it was last year. It smells great and looks great, but I'm still a little concerned. Should I put them on some sort of vitamin supplement for the winter? If so, which one?

THANKS GUYS!

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  1. Try a grazing muzzle.  It allows them to be on pasture all day but they can only get a few strands of grass at a time. You can take it off at night.  Or, fence off a dry lot so they can be off pasture for hours at a time.  I'd rather do that than put them in a stall.  The stall gives them no exercise and my TB gets very anxious if she is in a stall for any length of time.  

    If your horses don't know how to longe yet, it might be a good time to teach them.  Get a stick with a plastic bag on the end (a flag) to encourage them to go forward (and away from you).  Don't longe too much, it isn't good for them to go in little circles all the time.  Another way you can get your horses some additional exercise is to invite someone to you farm to go riding with you.  That way you can ride and not be alone. I never ride alone either for safety reasons...


  2. Just like with people, losing weight means more exercise and less food.  

    Cut down their food by keeping them off the grass more often or using a muzzle.  If they're already fat, you'll have to keep them off grass more often and longer, but next year out at night and in during the day will help a lot.  Personally, I don't like turning them out too long with a muzzle; it's frustrating for them and they may get it caught on something.

    More exercise is easy, too.  Teaching them to lunge isn't hard, and you've gotten some excellent advice on that.  If you can't do that, try "free lunging."  Put them in a ring or an arena and have them walk, trot, canter around the outside while you act like a ringmaster to keep them moving.  You don't need to have them on a lunge line, just keep them moving.  You can do both at the same time.  As long as you don't get run over (unlikely; but carry a whip), it doesn't matter if they listen at first or not.  Over time, you can teach them voice commands and so on, but at first just get them to move.  Flick the whip at them, run towards them yelling "trot" or whatever, wave your hands.  They'll move, and that's the whole point.

    If you free lunge in their pasture, make sure you use a special command to let them know it's time to move, and make sure to catch them afterwards and give them a treat.  It's better to do it elsewhere, though, as it definitely can make them harder to catch if you do it in the field.

    Don't add vitamins.  They really don't need them, and almost every supplement out there is extremely high calorie.  They're bad, in my opinion, for most horses, let alone overweight ones.  If the hay looks and smells great, then don't be concerned.  Hay that's been harvested too late won't smell much (love that new hay smell!) and won't have the good rich color of good hay.  Hay that's been rained on shouldn't be bought for horses (always ask), but you'll know it come winter because it will become dusty.  Even in bad weather, good producers manage to make good hay.

    You're welcome!

  3. Be very careful about giving your horses vitamins and other supplements. If you give them what they don't need the vitamins can become toxic. The best way to get them to lose weight is to limit their time grazing, You can use a grazing muzzle, but I personally don't like them and would only use one of that was my only option. If you are concerned about them getting enough nutrients, feed them Omalene 100 or other horse feed along with their hay.

  4. I anwswered both of your questions from my experiences and knowledge. And remember to work in incriments of four in everything. That means when you tap the air tap four time and then increase pressure.

    1.) Teach them to lung, here are some easy step by step instructions on how to teach you horse to lunge for respect:

          1. Point in the direction you want you horse to go. Tap the air on the opposite side of the horse(teach them to go away from pressure). If the horse still does not move, then tap the closest body part( NOT the head, but neck and shoulders are fine.) If the horse still doesnt go then tap harder and harder untill they move.

         2. Once they move out let them go around once or twice around you then: Step in front of there shoulders(drive line), slide your hand down the lead rope, and pull to you belly. Immediatly after they stop and face you pet and reward them. This will make them yeild there hindquarters and turn to face you.

          3. Repeat step one and two, do about 10stops and starts in both directions and call it a session.

    Note: Your horse may try to bite/kick/charge/ because you are teaching them and they are frustrated. Just keep the pressure and do not stop what you are doing, just ignore it.

    2.) I wouldnt worry about feeding them vitemans ect.. beacuse they are not getting ridden hard as you mentioned. Here are two fedding options that have worked great for me:

         1. if you are not going to lunge then at all then try this:

    give them full acess to a mineral block. Not a salt one because a mineral block has vitemans and multiple minerals, a salt block only has salt. then give each horse free choice good quality grass hay. Then twice a day give them some sweet feed from you local feed store. (It usually consists of oats, barley, corn, molasses ect..) and that is about it for the non working horse.

         2. Another option, is to feed alfalfa twice a day. A nice sized flake. Alfalfa is higher in protein, energy, and is great roughage. If you feed alfalfa definatly feed about 6-10c of wet bran twice a day.

    Hope this helps, and if you use any of my advice and would like to know more or have questions email me at TurnNburnem@aol.com. Hope you get this problem solved! Goodluck! And god bless your husband for fighting to keep us free!! he will be in my prayers.

  5. You need to call or mail your concerns to a vet; that's exactly why they spent many years in school... to become experts on animals and help you with questions such as these.   You should be able to reach one by 8:00 am tomorrow morning.  Good luck..

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