Question:

2004 Chevy Cavalier Stereo Installation?

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I have a 2004 Chevrolet Cavalier that I just bought a cd player for, I was wondering how difficult it is to get the dash panel off that covers the cd player. If anyone can explain how its done or knows of a site I can go on and print up instructions that would be awesome!

Thanks in advance!

Brittany

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  1. This can be a tricky one if you haven't done it before.

    Tools required:

    --#2 Philips screwdriver (stubby type)

    --1/4" ratchet with 6" extension bar and 7mm (or 9/32") socket

    --A pick tool is useful for unplugging the cigarette lighter and dimmer switch plugs

    1.  Open the driver's door, and pull off the panel covering the driver's end of the dash (including the fuse box cover).  Remove the 7mm (9/32") s***w underneath the panel.

    2.  Open the passenger door, and pull off the panel covering the passenger's end of the dash.  Remove the 7mm s***w underneath that panel (the black s***w, not the brass one).

    3.  Remove the #2 Phillips s***w from the defrost vent panel, on top of the dash pad in the middle.  Pry off the vent panel and remove two 7mm screws underneath.

    4.  Open the glove box, and remove two 7mm screws underneath the front edge of the dash pad, just above the glove box opening; plus one 7mm s***w underneath the vent on the end of the dash.

    5.  Look inside the glove box at the top.  You should see an opening with a steel bracket behind it.  Securing the bracket are two brass 7mm screws.  Remove them both.

    6.  Carefully pull straight up on front of the top dash pad, above the instrument cluster, to release the pressure clips holding it down.  After that you can remove the entire dash pad from the vehicle.  Be very careful because the passenger side airbag will be exposed; don't puncture or damage it.

    7.  Now you can start removing the front dash plate that surrounds the instrument cluster, radio, and climate controls.  Start by removing the three 7mm screws at the top of the plate, above the instrument cluster area.

    8.  Work your way around the outer perimeter of the dash plate, pulling it forward to release the clips that secure it to the sub-dash.  Tilt the steering wheel to the lowest position, and unplug the cigarette lighter and dimmer switch.  (You may find it easier to remove the dimmer switch panel instead of unplugging it).  Carefully work the dash plate over the top of the steering column and remove the plate from the vehicle.

    9.  The factory radio is held in with three 7mm screws; remove them, pull the radio out, and unplug it.

    Once you've done a few of these, it takes about five minutes to go through all those steps (if you have the appropriate tools).  Your first one, though, will take longer.

    Now, here's all the other issues you're going to run into with this installation:

    --Mounting depth is very limited in the radio cavity.  You'll probably have to cut away some plastic at the rear.  I find it easier to remove the vent-work above the radio cavity, as there are just two screws holding it down; that provides easier access for cutting plastic and tucking wires out of the way.  Be careful if you use a Dremel or air saw to cut the plastic:  the instrument cluster is sensitive to vibration.  It's very common for the odometer backlight to be damaged if you use power tools to cut behind the dash, so carefully remove the instrument cluster first.

    --This is a GM data-bus radio, so there's no accessory power wire in the factory harness--the computer controls the radio on/off functions.  Also, the factory radio generates all vehicle warning chimes.  If you remove the radio and don't want to lose your vehicle's chime functions, you'll need to use a special adapter module that can be fairly expensive.  (You can also find special harnesses that allow you to keep the factory radio in the system and re-locate it to the trunk).  If you don't care about the chimes, you can just use a standard wire harness like Metra's 70-2003, but you'll have to route your head unit's red accessory wire to a key-switched voltage source.  I prefer to use the brown accessory power wire in the vehicle's ignition harness, but this isn't the easiest thing in the world to do.   You'll have an easier time if you use the adapter module because it provides an accessory power output.  An example is Metra's VT-GMRC-01.

    Good luck!

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