Question:

4 unrelated boars?

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I started with one, a baby, about 4 weeks, after a month, added another baby, about 4 weeks, again, did the same but added 2.

The older 2 were paired nicely but when I added the second 2 of course we had to start all over again.

I enlarged the cage each time and added hidey/cubbies etc for each pig as well as adding a second watering bottle and food dishes when I got the second 2.

So at this stage (it's been about a month since adding the last 2) My eldest (alpha) is caged in one large cage with the 2 little ones and my #2 is by himself. The alpha has bonded perfectly with one of the little guys and the other one he still chases around a lot but the little guy has shown that he would rather keep trying than be separated either by himself or with #2. I think they will all work out fine.

My question/concern is will I ever be able to add #2 back in the pack and if not, what's the best thing to do to keep him from being lonely.

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  1. we found a baby rabbit at the side of the road about a year ago we bought a Guinea pig to keep her company Templeton our boar is lovely but sadly the rabbit died so we got another pig Wilbur then another pig they are all American short haired then we decided to get something more exciting so i bought two pedigree shelties there names are Louis after Louis vuitton and prada at the moment they are 4 months old and introducing all of these Guinea pigs we have never had any problems with them other than then expressing their dominance this takes place by the highest dominating pig humping the lower ranking until they comfortable with their rank Wilbur is a self white he is the dominant pig and might i add very cocky!!

    the way we introduced all of my pigs is putting one pig in with the new pigs in order of rank 1 2 3 and so on now they all run around the garden together the lowest ranking male pig and the other timpleton still occasionally hums the new pigs but what we to is in three steps

    1the first time they are naughty smack the ground - this shocks them then the pig being naughty stops what he is doing and goes off if this doesnt work

    2 squeeze the back of the bad pigs neck if you do it right they will make a high pitched squeel, (this doesnt hurt them as much as they make out, it is what thier mother does when they are babies if they still carry on once you hve put him down pick him up and seperate him from the groupabout 20 min is enough

    it will take a long time for the message to get through but this does work

    added - older pigs do not get on better than babie or addolescent pigs the earlier the better

    if you have any mor questions about your mini pigs email me at scordukes@yahoo.com


  2. Wait..you do you have a C&C cage? If he happens to be a loner pig you could connect his cage to theirs, or at least put his cage next to theirs. It MIGHT just be their age, if they are in their adolescencs and going through puberty, that could cause them to start fighting more. You could wait until they are older to reintroduce them.

    http://cavyspirit.com/sociallife.htm

    This website explains everything pretty well. If you scroll near the bottom, it will tell you everything you need to know about proper introductions..it worked for me. If that doesn't go well, you can give them all a buddy bath, it explains how to do those on that site too.

    TERRIBLE TERRIBLE TERRIBLE ADVICE GIVEN BY THE LADY BELOW ME!

    First off, putting a rabbit with a pig for a buddy should NEVER be done. A rabbit can and will kick from their hind legs, ending in a result in death of the pig. It happens all too much. Rabbits and pigs also have very different digestive systems and diets, and when housed together they will be eating eachothers foods, which is very harmfull for the pig and the rabbit. Guinea pigs dont naturally make their own Vit C, so they get that by eating the proper veggies, and rabbits don't so it will cause them to get too much Vit C.

    She says adolences does not change the pigs behavior- WRONG- people who actually own young boars know it DOES make pigs more likely to fight with other pigs, it's just common knowledge..or it should be if you are owning several, espcially young boars

    She uses training techniques such a slamming on the ground and frightening them. She  think's it will fear them into stopping. BUT guinea pigs to NOT have the capacity to understand the good and bad cause effect. Using fear to control your pig is no way acceptable, since they are prey animals they already are capable of being easily frightened the way it is. Plus it's not allowing her guinea pig to simply be a guinea pig. If she has problems with how they are then she has no business even owning them, if all she is doing is putting them through fear and DEADLY danger.

    She reccomends PINCHING the pigs behind the ear as well, that sound DOES MEAN PAIN, she was actually dumb enough to say that it "doesnt mean pain". That squeal, even gives me the feeling of pain. If it wasn't painfull, it would simply make no noise. Why else would it fear her into doing what she wants it to do? It's NOT in anyway a harmless magical tap that will suddenly make your pig do whatever you want it to do.

    She only doesn't have decent advice, but common sence as well. I'm sure you have more concern about your pigs well being than her, so please avoid her for advice.

    If you have ANY questions or concerns, please join the forum at www.guineapigcages.com. There are tons of cavy savvy people there who have tons of experience, people who run rescues/vets who will be more than happy to help you and your pigs.
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