4 week old beardie died, try another?

Question

well I got it at 2 weeks and had it for 2 weeks I think due to me being uninformed and unequipped for the first few days is why it died plus I think it starved to death because it wouldnt eat any crickets, but anyway it really upset me that spike died and I wanted to get another one atleast 2 months old (I think the older the better the survival rate? maybe?) would he survive in the habitate I have (10gal. tank with calicum sand, uva and basking lights thermometer water dish to soak in, rocks to bask on etc.) is it the habitate or what?

Answer 1

First of all, you should've done your research BEFORE! getting it, and you have to get atleast a 20 long tank to allow for a temp gradient, and sand causes impaction..enough said.

Answer 2

I think maybe you should spend some time diligently researching their care needs before you get another one. No offense, just trying to save you (and it) a lot of grief in the future. I've posted a link to a really good care sheet. Please take some time to print it out and read it.

Answer 3

you really shouldnt get a beardie before like 6 weeks.

Answer 4

No, another one would not survive in what you have now.  For babies you don't use sand and I would never use the cacli or repti sand, play sand is better, your lizard won't get stained by the color of the sand and impaction rates are lower.  Second like others have said, 10 gallon tanks are either hot or cool, and not both like you need.  I lost two collared lizard babies to 10 gal tanks and it was because they could not cool off.   You will need at least a 20 gallon for a temperature gradient can be established, however even a 20 gallon tank will not hold your growing bearded dragon for long, a 40 gallon breeder is the smallest ideal size for an adult. Good luck next time and I am sorry to hear about Spike.

Answer 5

you should research more before you get another one.  be more prepared.  the age of the beardie that you get really wont matter if you dont know what is going on.

Answer 6

You cannot keep him in a 10 gallon as it is impossible to provide a heat gradient.  You must start with a 40 gallon breeder sized tank, even for a baby.  The tank needs to be warm on one end (low 90's,) and cooler on the other (low 80's) with a basking spot of 105F for baby beardies.  UVB ighting is critical--not just UVA.  NO NO NO sand--it dehydrates them and caused fatal impactions.  Thermometer MUST be a digital probe indoor/outdoor thermometer as stick on's and dial thermometers are VERY inaccurate and can be off by more than 20F.  A little dish for water.   It is better to give warm water soaks--shallow water for 10 minutes--a few times a week to hydrate the beardie.  Adults can be soaked weekly or every other week.  Feed crickets only no bigger than the space between the eyes or fatal impactions and paralysis can occur.  Properly feed and gutload the crickets.  The crickets also need to be calciumD3 dusted every day, and a good multivitamin used once a week.  Lights and heat need to be on for 12 hours a day and off at night so there is complete darkness and coolness.  UVB bulbs must be made for reptiles (such as Reptiglo 8.0 or Reptisun 10.0) and must be changed every 6 months unless you have a UVB monitor.  No plastic or glass must be allowed to come between the bulb and the beardie.  These lights need to be within 12 inches of the basking spot.   A fresh salad with balanced ingredients needs to be fed daily.  

http://www.beautifuldragons.503xtreme.co...

http://www.bio.miami.edu/ktosney/file/BD...