9 speed vs. 10 speed??? Thoughts?

Question

I'm upgrading an old 1992 Cannondale R600 roadbike from a 7speed drivetrain and can't decide if I should go to a 9 speed or 10 speed set-up. I think the 10 speed set-up would force me to replace the crankset whereas I could keep the stock crankset with a 9er. I will be training in some hilly areas but I'm new to this so I don't know if the extra gearing with the 10 speed set-up is worth it. I know I could probably just spend a few hundred dollars more and purchase a new bike but this one has sentimental value so I would rather build it up rather than buy new.

Also, does anyone happen to know the steerer tube diameter on Cannondale's this old? This one obviously has a threaded stem and fork but I was considering throwing on a carbon fork with a threadless headset but I'm not sure I'm measuring the steerer tube correctly.

Thanks.

Answer 1

the gearing is more a function of spread than how many jumps in the middle.  in other words, your seven speed might be a 13-27 for example, and a ten speed 13-27 would be the exact same range, just less gaps between shifts.  you would still have the 27t climbing gear in either case.

anyway, if i was going to spend the money, i would get the latest stuff.  eventually the 9's are going to be phased out and then you wont be able to get parts for it.  if you go with 10's as far as i know, that is supposed to be the end of it.

you have a 1" steer tube.  get a 1" fork, headset, spacers, stem and bars.  you need a guide or a tubing cutter to cut the steer tube to length, but it isnt that hard to replace a threaded fork with a threadless, just expensive.

with shifters running 300, the price of derailers, cogs, chain,wheels and the fork you have quickly outpriced a new bike.  idont believe your 7sp hub will work w/ the 9sp stuff.  i could be wrong but i dont think so.

Answer 2

def 10 speed for road biking...you want as many gears as possible for versatility

Answer 3

YIPES! I would reconsider this move. Let's forget about the compatibility of parts for the moment.

Going from a 7 speed to 8/9/10 requires resetting the rear spacing and realigning the dropouts. This is next to impossible with Cannondale- especially old ones- without cracking the frame or stressing it to the point where you could experience sudden catastrophic failure.

Cannondale frames- especially old ones- tend to have a very limited life to begin with, as cracks frequently form on the frame at various spots... the seat tube/top tube, the chainstay reinforcement, the down tube/headtube are most common. This type of failure is NOT covered under their warranty. They appear as thin scratches- hardly noticable.

Soooo, of course it is up to you, but if you were to come into my shop I wouldn't do it- the liability is just too great.

I have lots of bikes that I wouldn't part with due to sentimental reasons but would give any one of them up to avoid being hurt or killed because of a poorly advised change.