94 ACCORD DIES, help

Question

just got a 94 accord 4cyl manual trans. was leaking oil into plug tubes, and throwing 02 code, tested sensor with my trusty multi meter , new valve cover gasket on spark plug tube gaskets, replaced cap, rotor, plugs, wires, 02 sensor, pcv, egr, air filter, oil change, and put the car on the injector cleaner machine at the local shop, car ran great for two days , now as im driving i begin to decelerate, clutch it, put it into neutral, and step on the brake it will drop rpm to 500 then sputter and die at random , no particular intervals, hi speed and lo alike, but always fires right back up with no problem, can anyone help, this car is for my wife and 1 week old son to use, for dr. appts and such, please any help would be greatly appreciated, i have access t just about every tool you can imagine, and would like to figure this out and not take it to a shop if i can do the work safley

Answer 1

I would take a look at the IAC idle air control valve. Or possibly the MAP sensor. I would try to clean out the IAC first, and hopefully your problem will be solved.

Answer 2

Those other answers seem right on the money, I just wanted to say that the oil in the plug tubes is normal as the plugs sit below that level. I have a 97 and have oil in my plug tubes all the time with no ill effect as long as the plugs are torqued correctly. Good choice on buying the Accord as it is an American car, made in the USA.

Answer 3

Could also be the MAF (mass air flow) sensor.

Answer 4

two things off the top of my head.  the first is that the idle on deceleration is controlled by the idle air control valve on the side of the throttle body.  typically the air bypass ports get clogged with carbon like soot in a chimney and cause the valve to stick.  you can remove the valve and clean the port and the valve with carburetor cleaner.  

note: don't lose the two o-rings that seal the valve's ports to the throttle body or you'll have a vacuum leak.

the other is also carbon related--the EGR may very well be sticking for the same reason.  I recommen pulling the vacuum line from the intake to the EGR and, for purposes of testing, plug the line off with a golf tee or similar.  if the car doesnt' stall on the way down with the EGR disabled then you will have isolated the cause.

This test won't work on some 'negative backpressure egr valves' but I think it will work on yours.  if the egr is hanging open you'll flood the engine out with air and cause the sputter and stall.

while you're cleaning out the IAC ports and valve clean the throttle plates and throttle body bore if they are carboned up as well.

Its usually the IAC or the EGR on those cars that cause that problem

hope that helps

Answer 5

Call an tow truck and then go to an Big 3 Dealership and Buy American not from Japan dealer like Honda Toyata  

Answer 6

it sounds like a fuel delivery problem. i note that you did not change the fuel filter-- change that first and see if the problem goes away.

Next after that is the fuel pressure regulator or the fuel pump. It could even be a dirty gas tank and its clogging the screen on the fuel pump---which is inside the tank itself.

i see by your profile that you dont allow emails so no body can get back to you.