A few car painting questions for the pros

Question

1. What size air compressor is big enough to do an average sized sedan?

2. What is the best type of paint (brands and types) for a good glossy look, and what type is forgiving to a novice painter. Looking into a black paint with gold flake, and clear.

3. Will I get best results by priming, sanding, painting a coat, wet sanding, recoating, wet sand again, re coat a final time, and clear a few times? Im looking to get the smoothest deepest gloss I can, and I dont mind taking my time.

4. Any suggestions on grits for sanding?

5. Any other good tips you have are appreciated.

Answer 1

1. A pretty big single-stage compressor is usually preferable. Most any two-stager would be more than adequate, but they are much more expensive. I have a 6.5 horse single stage with a 60 gallon tank myself, which keeps up pretty good. It runs on 220 hardwired into the circuit breaker panel. Don't forget a moisture separator/trap in the line.

2. Dupont, Ditzler or PPG are all good.as far as brand. As far as type, I may be a little old fashioned, but I usually just go with Acrylic Enamel with some Catalyst Hardener, and skip the clear coating. Just put a nice thick coat of wax over, after it's good and cured.

4. Try to avoid 36 grit for anything but taking off body filler if you put way too much on. 80  to get it close, and 120 to finish. Then use some glazing putty before priming. Start initial sanding of the old paint with 220 for feathering where needed, and checking prime coat on body work.  Then 280, then 320 for finishing and basic scuffing of other surfaces that are in pretty good shape. All dry sandpapers. An Air File for most bodywork duty. A Dual-Action sander with a 6 inch diameter pad with flexible outter edges for most feathering and general surface prep. NO Jitterbugs! You're not finishing a cabinet here.

3+4. Work your way up to higher number grits wet-and-dry sandpaper, used wet, between top-coats. 400 on up to 600, with big buckets of fresh clean water. Or even a running hose with no restriction and medium flow. Just be careful not to scratch.

5. Make sure you use a Primer-Sealer after all prep sanding is done, and before first top-coat.. Keeps colors from bleeding, and body fillers/glazes from swelling. Thoroughly blow out nooks and crannies right before every top coat, and use a tack cloth everywhere, including masking paper and taped areas, for every coat.

Assuming you don't have a Professional Spray Booth, best Temperature is around 70F, and low humidity. Low wind is of course helpful too. Early morning with clear skies, (but no direct sun) for good visibility.Hose down the entire area around the car after sweeping/blowing to keep down dust.

I'll probably think of something else yet, but for now, I'll leave you with a link to check out;

http://www.sherwin-automotive.com/refere...

Ahh, that reminds me. Silicone De-Greaser to prevent fisheye. Worth it's weight in Gold! LOL

http://www.sherwin-automotive.com/refere...

Answer 2

First off if you have never shot flake it Will turn out a mess> Spend the $ have a pro do it>The parts you listed is about the cost of a good paint job> beside you paint a base coat black flake then clear coat over it> Lot to it> And you have to have a closed vacuum dust free room with a dryer or the best paint job will have dit dits all over it>