At what grade do you down climb?

Question

can you down climb at the same grade as you climb?, are people starting to down climb rather than climb up?

Answer 1

Very few people (if any) can down climb at the same grade that they climb up. I can usually back down a couple of moves even when climbing at my limit, but extended down climbing at your limit is VERY difficult. it is harder for several reasons:

* You can't see the holds as well when you are going down

* You have to move with gravity (fall) and then catch yourself every hold

* Nobody down climbs as much as climbing up so they are not as good

* A lot of down climbing (especially trad) is done without a rope

* Down climbing just isn't a natural act like climbing up - you have to learn it

I down climb a lot in the gym for the extra time on the wall and to get a better burn in my arms. I wouldn't mind down climbing on bolted sport routes, but there isn't much use in doing that. It is trad climbing where you HAVE to climb back down where it is an important skill - for both decending off of a mountain and backing down off of a bad line. I've only lead 5.10 on trad and I can tell you there is no way that I could down climb very far at that level - but there are usually easier decent routes.

Good Luck

Answer 2

Huh?? You should clarify. I am confused.

Answer 3

I definitely don't down climb at the same grade I climb, I have also used this method to train rigorously.

I probably down climb at a 5.11 on a good day, but it also depends on the route I'm climbing, the angle of the wall, etc.

btw, down climbing is not just for soloing... you can down climb any route you've climbed.. well, up.

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This is frequently used as a workout technique implied by climbing teams all over the nation.

but, to answer your question. No, I do not think people have "started to down climb rather than climb up"??

Answer 4

Downclimbing becomes more difficult than climbing up only for the higher graded climbs, like about 5.10 and up, because starting around 5.11, the holds become extremely thin, and thus very hard to find when going down.  However, for 5.9 and less, it's very easy to "slide down" to the next big hold, you can afford to be sloppy and get away with things that you couldn't when going up.  This is especially true for 5.8s and lower.  

I think for me the easy 5.10s are my limit for consistent success in downclimbing.  Why do I downclimb?  Probably more out of necessity.

A further point needs to be made, and that is, downclimbing is a lot harder where you haven't just climbed---when you have no beta, you can get into trouble very quickly.

Also, who's the troll that gave Tahoe a thumbs down?  His answer was very decent.

Answer 5

never tried it put it does sound interesting I will have to try it next time I go out.

Answer 6

I can down climb about 2 grades below what I can climb - I only down climb when I get to the top and need to decend from the top of a mountain.

I have down climbed on a rope, but that is usually only for a few moves because rappelling is faster - down climbing without a rope is faster still - that is why people down climb.