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Auto Paint / Spray Painting Question, How Thick To Make Coats? (Like mist that dries, or so it flows together)

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I recently tried to paint side skirts with premixed aersol cans and I ran in to a problem.

I was applying it so thin that it would form a texture like sandpaper; like a fine mist that dried. I tried it a little thicker and it started flowing together, but not quite enough to run.

I plan on using a paint gun this time, but Do I Spray It On Until It Flows Together, or Do I Spray It On Like A Fine Mist And Simply Sand It Down?

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  1. You want each coat to be a nice, even solid colour coat, so it looks wet, but with no runs or slumps. Start and stop the gun spraying outsid eof the piece you are spraying, so you don't get any big blobs in the coat.

    Spray from about 10 - 14 inches away, whatever feels right for you (do a test piece first!), and KEEP THE GUN MOVING. Do not spray over the same spot over and over whilst ignoring other areas, spray from one side of the component to the other in steady smooth, slightly overlapping rows.

    Regulate the speed of the gun over the piece to acheive the coat thickness you want (as you said, until it flows together), and do not apply too thickly. It's better to do a couple of thinner coats than one thick one.

    Wet sand between coats with a block and the finest wet'n'dry paper you can find (at least 2000 grit, preferably 4000), then clear coat over the last colour without sanding.

    Edit: If you do get a run, you can scrape it off with a razor blade (wet sand after), just be careful not to nick the paint around it.


  2. when using a "spray gun" your coats should be as follows: first coat is light with each pass overlapping the first by about 50% and the first coat should almost cover any bodywork (should be able to almost see through it) then wait till paint is tacky depending one type of paint ( I recommend Base coat Clear coat  where the base coat dries instantly and can be sanded if necessary ) then apply the second coat which should be applied as a medium coat then allow the "flash time" before adding the last light coat. this should cover the area properly. And if using the recommended paint then you clear coat the work with 2 light coats for the desired shine and you are done.

  3. And do a test panel first.Lay your test panel the same way as the panel you want to paint. (hood,flat.door,vertical.) read all the instructions with your paint gun. Know how the paint manufacturer wants the paint and clear coat atomized for best results. This is determined by fluid cap and needle size. A 1.2 to 1.4 works best for urethane clears. And know what type of reducer your going to need. If it's a hot day and you use a slow reducer,it won't flow very well. If you use a hot reducer on a cold day, it won't stop.

    And finally, know what type of spray gun is going to work best for you and the environment your going to be painting in. Siphon feeds require alot of air pressure and will have lots of over spray.  Gravity feed will reduce the overs pray and put more product on the car than in the air. If  this is a one time deal I'd recommend the gravity feed. If your planning on doing alot of painting, go with an H.V.L.P (high volume low pressure) These are more expensive and require a good painting technique. A good gravity feed can run about 100$ and  up.

    Hope this helps and good luck.

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