Bayliner capri 1700 ls with force 120 HP?

Question

Hi we are having some issue with a bayliner capri 1700 ls that has a force 120 hp engine, 1996.

The boat will not start at all, The starter motor will not turn over and when the key is put the ignition to turn the boat over all power is lost.

We have used a voltmeter to test the power, it runs up to the ignition barrel and to the fuse's but when the key is turned it looses power right away, this then means that all electrics on board will stop working for at least an hour then on board electrics will come back, but the same thing happens again when the key is turned.

We believe this to be an electrical issue, with regards to either a loose connection etc.

Can anyone advise as to where to obtain a wiring loom diagram for the boat on the net or any advice on what wires to start checking would be great with the colour and location would be fantastic.

Many thanks for reading this

if you have any diagrams that you can email please send to Seanis15@hot mail.com

Answer 1

try cleaning and tightening your battery cables, also check where the ground is connected to the engine block.

Answer 2

Windermere Aquatic are the sole UK importers for Bayliner, they will probably be able to assist.

http://www.aquaticboatcentres.com/

Answer 3

93% of all electrical problems on boats is caused by corrosion/loose connections.

Outboard motor wiring color schemes pretty much became standard during the mid-to-late eighties -- I can't promise this will match what you've got.

The start circuit:  battery (+) is connected to the starter solenoid.  +12V feed to the keyswitch is a red wire running from that same solenoid post to the main wiring harness plug on the port side of the engine;  it should have a 20-amp fuse on an in-line fuse holder just upstream of the plug.

That red wire connects to a red w/purple tracer on the boat side of the main plug, connected to keyswitch post "B" (battery).  When the key is turned to "start", B is connected to post "S" (start).  A yellow/red wire, interrupted by the neutral safetly switch, runs back through the main harness plug to the starter solenoid input terminal (small terminal).  The other small solenoid terminal has a black ground wire attached to the engine block.

If the 20-amp main fuse blows (which obviously it isn't), you get no power to the keyswitch, but that should only affect switched accessories (those that are only powered with the key "on").

When the key turned to "on" or "start", the 12V from post B is also connected to a purple wire on terminal "A", which powers your gauge lighting and any other switched accessories.

Unswitched accessories which for safety reasons should at least include bilge pump, horn, nav lights, and ship-to-shore radio (if equipped), I would expect to have a separate +12V feed to a fuse box.  

But based on your description, your accessories are drawing from the same 12V feed as the keyswitch, and there's an auto reset circuit breaker on that wire.  

One of two things is happening:  the breaker is malfunctioning, or else you've got a direct short to ground somewhere on the start circuit and the breaker has saved your boat from burning up.

I'd concentrate on the keyswitch first, test for continuity between "B" and the smaller "M" post (magneto/ground) should be open circuit otherwise that's your short.  Then the start wire, look for anywhere the insulation could be chafing (where the loom runs through bulkheads/under floors, etc.)

Better yet, start by trying it with the accessory fuse box disconnected.  That should help narrow it down.

good luck.

++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++...

"...no spark from any of the 4 spark plugs..."

First, if you have an emergency lanyard, make sure it's fimly attached then try again.

Unplug the spark plug leads and ground 'em to the engine block with jumper wires, put an inline spark tester (couple bucks at auto parts store) on one with the gap set at 1/2".  Unplug the big red main wiring harness plug and jump the solenoid to turn the engine over.  

If you get spark on your tester, then troubleshoot your kill circuit.  Most outboards it's a black wire w/yellow tracer -- if you don't have one like that in your wiring harness, the keyswitch will have two "M" posts, one with a black ground wire, the other is the kill wire.

To shut the engine off, the kill wire is connected to ground, which short-circuits the ignition preventing spark.  Check the keyswitch for continuity between the "M" posts, should be open except when switch is "off".  Check the kill switch, should be open to run, closed to kill.  Inspect the wiring -- look for some place where the insulation could get chafed.

Still no spark, inspect the wiring on the engine, looking for an accidental contact between the kill wire & engine block.  Otherwise, it'll either be the stator, trigger or ignition module.  Any competent marine tech has tools to determine which component is faulty.  

The most likely suspect is the module -- easy enough to change -- bolt off/bolt on plug&play, and if that isn't it, there's worse things than having a spare one on board.

You don't want to tackle the trigger or stator without a good service manual in your hands.

Answer 4

Make sure your battery is good- an old battery low on electrolyte can show 12 volts on its own, but will show 0 under a load.  If the starter is now working, and is engaging the flywheel teeth, but the engine will not turn over, see if the flywheel will turn by hand. Let me know what happens... Carlo