Beginner surfer need some help!?

Question

Hi, I live in Venice, Fl. I know, I know the surfing here is pathedic. But There are some pretty good days here. Atleast Venice is one of the best places on the west coast to surf. I went surfing with my freind and it was 4 ft. I was paddling to catch a wave and felt a huge jolt upwards and I nose dive and get thrown around like a rag doll under water. Why do I nose dive? I am also into the market in getting a surfboard its always like 2-3 ft and some days gets up to 4 or 5. I cant fit a longboard in my car so i was thinking about getting like around a 6'6 shortboard. tell me what u guys think about the 2 problems. I am also 13 yrs old and about 5'4 and 125 lbs.

thanks

Answer 1

you may need to be further out, giving yourself a chance to paddle with the wave longer before you stand up. As you paddle be far up on your board enough to touch the tip of the nose with your finger, but not too far up that you can reach much further.

when you stand up, keep your back foot above the fins and quickly slide your front foot up along the stringer to the middle of the board while leaning forward and ready to shift your weight to the back of the board to avoid burying the nose.

try taking off at an angle towards the open face, rather than straight down. This reduces the steepness of the entry, giving you more time to stand up and avoiding burying the nose.

Try a short thick/wide board like a fish with a wide swallow tail, but a little more rocker in the nose to avoid pearling. I think you should go shorter than a 6'6". Go wider and thicker, not longer. A longer board is easier to pearl and may be part of your problem.

Answer 2

keep more weight at the back of the board, also try to get up as fast as you can with out losing you balence.

the best board for you is like a 6'6 short or a fun board.

check out ISLE surf online shop they have some great boards for beginers and good riders.

Answer 3

ur nose diving cause ur standing too much near the nose on the board stand closer neer the back so it almost tips up. when the water throws u around the best thing to do is GO with the current.

as for the boad i would prob get that one depending on how much more ur gunna grow

Answer 4

You need a board that will float you well enough for you to take off (paddle and catch a wave). Most people learn best on long boards, although I have seen lots of surfers start on a short board and master it. Long boards are ideal for learners. There are also good intermediate length boards to learn on, funshapes, mini-mals and some hybrids.  Use your head a buy a surfboard that is right for you and the surf you ride, not your car. Buy a car rack (they make lots of great ones for sedans and pick-ups, you don't need an SUV!) You can always trade in a board and buy a new one when you are ready for a change (or keep your long board. I bought a new long board about 6/7 years ago, and, like I said, there are some days that it's the perfect board for the conditions, where you surf, it is almost always a longboard day!).

There are a couple reasons why you "pearled". You probably were too far forward on your board, and when you dropped over the crest of the wave, your weight pushed your nose down. Also, you were probably paddling perpendicular to the wave, hence, you went straight on down. You should be paddling diagonal to the line created by the wave's crest. Try to read the direction it will break, and paddle in that direction, the more acute angle the steeper the wave. And, also if you actually took off before pearling, you probably were too slow standing up and forcing out a turn at the bottom.