Question:

Best time to cut major branches off a peach tree?

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My dad plants without planning. He planted a peach tree very close to a grapefruit tree. 2 of the major branches of the peach tree stretches over which overpowering the grapefruit tree. As a result, the grapefruit tree isn't getting not much sunshine (kinda like a hand on top of & wrap around a tennis ball). I want to cut down those 2 branches and allow the tree to grow new branches toward the other direction. The peach tree gives out good peaches and I don't want to damage/kill it (my dad will kill me for that). However, I dont' want the branches dangling. I think that peach tree is about 6-8 years old. It's about 10 feet tall.

Also, there's a 2 year old peach tree that I would like to move to the front yard (my dad planted right next to the Japanese maple and it's very crowded). When's a good time and how to prep it?

I'm a beginner in gardening and I need all the help as much as possible. I'm in Zone 8. Please kindly advice. Thanks!

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  1. I think you have more of problem then can be solved by cutting some branches from the peach tree.  That grapefruit tree isn't going to quit growing unless its a dwarf or semi-dwarf tree.  A standard grapefruit will just grow and grow.  You need to stand back and look that situation over.  One correction from another answerer, a tree that is 15 feet in diameter dosen't need to be 15 feet from another tree. That just means its growing about 8 feet on each side from the trunk.


  2. I don't know how much of the total tree you'll be taking out.  Also you can't force a tree to grow branches in a new direction.....well you can but not something I'll discuss here.  And I'm not sure I'd do it with peaches anyway.

    Soooo, it's hard answering your question.  Normally the time to be removing branches is winter.  However, if these branches are minor, less than 10% of the total canopy, you could cut one back now.  I'd hesitate about both least you open up too much shaded bark area to sun scald.  Save the other to winter.  Pruning now is creating wounds when disease spores are flying and insects are just looking for wounds.  

    How you cut the branch back is critical too.  You should not just stub it back, but rather take it back to it's original start be that the main trunk or a larger side branch.  

    Tell your father trees should not be any closer than their ultimate diameter spread.  especially when he's mixing ornamentals with fruiting.  So a tree peaches which can easily get 15 feet or more diameter should be at least 15 feet from any other tree. It's hard to imagine when the tree is little more than a stick, but tape measures are important when planting just to remind ourselves.

    Transplanting time is when the plants are dormant but just "thinking about" spring........so let's say for your zone late December into Feb some time. You can help prepare for transplanting now by going out and slicing straight down all around the tree about 18 inches from the trunk .  Come next winter dig at this 18 inch line all around.  That still gives you a 3' wide ball of soil and roots to move, not an easy job.  There's a good chance the roots may not have extended enought to keep the root ball intact, but I'm hopeful.  As you dig down, wrap the root ball with burlap or other heavy material and tie.  You want to keep the ball intact.  Have the hole at the new location already predug before you start the whole process so the tree will be out of the ground as little time as possible.

  3. You want to cut the branches during the off season when your peaches are not in bloom.

  4. Major pruning is best done in the winter while the tree is dormant.  If it's dormant, it won't feel a thing.

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