Boat wont go into forward gear? Will only go into reverse??

Question

OK, Im no boat expert so If my words don't sound right im sorry.

We just bought a 86 capri bayliner, 2-storke, 125hp,chrysler force outboard. Today was our first time taking it out. The guy we got it from said it just had a starting issue. Well it took us about 20 mins to start it and half a can of starting fluid. The fastest we could get the boat to go was 15mph if we tried to go any faster it just stalled. Well we didnt want to waste the day so we just dealt with it. Awhile after, we stopped the boat for a swim. When my husband started it again it wouldnt go into the forward gear. We could hear the engine going as if it was going to engage but never did, and when it did (very few times) it would pop back out. It would just vibrate really bad, make a loud thumping sound and that was it. We could only go into the reverse gear. Any ideas on what this problem is? I tried explaining this as best as i can but If you want anymore info plz ask and i will do my best at answering them.

Answer 1

It sounds to me like your linkage is faulty, or something is wrong with the prop. I am no expert either, but this same problem happened to my boat, and we ignored it. It was until later this year that we found out this was the problem. Our boat got water logged and sank to the below the lake level. Take it in ASAP, because if you ignore it you will end up with a boat under a lake.

:-)

I hope this helps

If you have any questions, please email me at;

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Answer 2

I hope he threw the motor in for free.  He's probably been abusing it for a long time.  

Did you at least do a compression test?

First, starting fluid has no lubricating qualities.  But it is an excellent solvent.  

When you spray starting fluid through the carbs of a 2-stroke motor, it strips the lubricating oil right off the cylinder walls.

If you wouldn't run your motor with no oil, then don't run it on starting fluid.

Second, what you are describing is a classic symptom of clogged hi-speed jets.  One or more cylinders is likely starving for fuel.

Which means it is also not getting any lubrication, since the oil is mixed with the fuel.  It's getting dragged though a dry hole.  Heat, friction, all that.

Is the fuel line holding pressure?  Are you using fresh 87 octane fuel mixed 50:1 with TCW3 certified oil?  Is the tank free of debris and water?  Are you using the recommended spark plugs correctly gapped?

Most common cause of hard cold start is operator error.  Start with a fully charged battery, open tank vent, pump primer bulb until firm, advance idle control to the start position, push the key in (if you have a push-to-prime keyswitch, or if not, activate the electric primer switch) and hold while turning the key over to start.  Release the key when the engine starts.  

If it fails to start within 5 or 8 seconds, you need to troubleshoot to pinpoint the cause.  Too much cranking just wears out battery and starter motor.  Likely, your primer system is faulty -- it just accomplishes the same as the starter fluid, only at the press of a button.  And much more effectively.

The first thing you want to do is a compression test.  This will tell how much damage it has suffered.  No sense spending time & money on a motor with bad compression.  You want to see even compression across all cylinders -- the lowest should be within 5 to 7% of the highest.

Next, a spark test.  Not a "spark plug" test.  Use an inline tester to test the ability of the ignition to generate sufficient spark.

Set the gap for 7/16", clip it to the engine block, attach the plug leads (one at a time), and look for a sharp blue spark while somebody turns the engine over with the key.

If you have good compression and spark on all four cylinders, and the fuel line is holding pressure, then rebuild your carbs using new carb kits.  Be sure and soak the metal parts overnight and blow out all passages with compressed air (or aerosol carb cleaner).

As for the gearcase, go round to the starboard side of the engine and detach the shift cable from the shift lever.   See if you can operate the shift lever by hand.  You might need to turn the flywheel slightly in a clockwise direction to mesh the gears while shifting with the engine off.

If you can't shift by hand, then you'll have to disassemble the gearcase for inspection.

If you can, then the problem is in the control box, or else the cable has stretched or slipped.

And change the water pump impeller -- that last owner obviously knew nothing about boat motors.

Good luck!

P.S.  don't worry, this won't cause your boat to sink!

Answer 3

we  had  a  boat  that  required  you  to  press  a button while  putting  it  in  forward  gear . look on  the  cosole  beneath  the  lever .

And read  your  manual  front to  back  before  you  get  into  your  boat again.

just  like  cars  you  need  to  know  about  boats  if  you  are  going  to  buy  a used  one  ansd alweays  buy  from  a reputable  dealer  .  they  will  look  after you.