Box turttles.....10 points!!!!!!?

Question

tell me every thing you know about box turttles.........

what do they eat?

can they come in side a house?

how often do they eat?

or any thing else you know

or you could give me likes to informational site

thankyou:) ps most informational awnser gets 10 pts!!

Answer 1

Box turtles are not "easy" turtles to keep.  They need very specialized care.  They need to eat veggies, greens, fruits, and proteins.  They can live inside, but they do much better living in an outdoor enclosure.  They should eat every other day.  I feed min MWF and with some kind of worm or insect of Sat.  The best site to get information is boxturtlesite.info.  Tess is an expert!  :)

Good luck to you and your turtles!  :)

Answer 2

Housing:

Box turtles tend to do well either outdoors, or in a large indoor enclosure. Many people do keep them in tiny aquariums, but it is a rather sad existence, in my opinion. One type of indoor container that actually works quite well is a large Rubbermaid tub. Rubbermaid tubs and specially built wooden boxes have an advantage over glass aquariums because they have opaque sides. Some box turtles will obsessively try to get through the glass to get to the larger area that they can see on the other side. Others become frightened by any activity in the room and will not relax until the sides are covered.

If you live within the natural range of any of the American box turtles, you should seriously consider an outdoor setup with sun, shade, a variety of weeds, and a small pond of water that is deep enough for swimming. Turtles are happier and healthier under these conditions. Some type of protection is required to prevent raccoons, dogs, or other predators from entering the enclosure.

Substrate:

One substrate that works well is a combination of potting soil, sand, leaf mulch and sphagnum moss. When misted every day, it holds humidity well. A product called "Bed-a-Beast" is recommended by many people for the same reason.

Burrowing into the substrate and/or hiding under a hollow log or "cave" of some sort makes box turtles feel secure. Just a small cardboard box will work fine, but a variety of logs and caves are sold at many pet stores. You should also make the substrate deep enough for the turtle to burrow completely under.

Flat rocks in one area will help keep the turtle's toenails in good shape.

All box turtles need high humidity. Dry air can cause eye irritation and even respiratory illness. It can literally kill a box turtle. Even the so-called desert box turtles (Terrapene ornata luteola) do their best to avoid dry air. They burrow into moist soil and come out at dawn and dusk when dew moistens everything at ground level, and become highly active in rain. Thoroughly mist the terrarium every day. Your turtle is likely to be most eager to eat right after being misted. Keeping potted plants in the terrarium will offer a comforting natural look, and also help maintain high humidity.

Water:

Box turtles enjoy wading and soaking in water, so provide some sort of pool. They will often defecate in their water container, and that helps keep the enclosure clean, if the water is replaced daily. Box turtles kept indoors should be placed in water to soak every day. Box turtles may be clumsy swimmers, but many of them do seem to enjoy it if a deeper pond is available in an outdoor enclosure. Some box turtles will swim in an outdoor pond for over an hour almost every warm day. Others just wade and soak in the shallow end. Make sure there is an easy exit so a swimming box turtle does not become exhaused. Also, cold water can disable a turtle that falls in or enters to swim. A warm water pond with an easy exit will be appreciated by many American box turtles and poses no significant danger of drowning.

Feeding:

American Box turtles are omnivores and will enjoy fruits, fungi, veggies, greens, mollusks, worms and insects. From research with wild turtles, we know they eat plants for almost half the diet and animal foods for a little bit over half the diet. They are opportunistic feeders, willing to eat almost anything edible that they find. So focus on using a wide variety of foods. Feed the turtle on a flat rock rather than from dishes of any kind. This more natural approach will prevent the beak and toenails from becoming overgrown. Provide a high calcium source all the time--e.g. cuttlebone, boiled eggshells, plaster block--so that the turtle can munch when it feels the need for more calcium.

If your turtle is reluctant to eat, try soaking and misting before feeding. Make sure the turtle is warm enough, and well lighted. Reluctant feeders can often be enticed with live food such as an earthworm or slug, or colorful foods such as strawberries or cantaloupe. Stinky foods, such as canned cat food, can be useful in getting a reluctant turtle eating. (However, cat food is not a good food for frequent use.) Sick turtles will usually not eat well, so if the turtle refuses to eat for more than two weeks, seek veterinary care.

As an example of a good, healthy meal for a box turtle, try a salad of chopped grapes, dandelion, and grated carrot, and add a delightful topping of earthworm. This should convince your turtle that you are a good provider. A couple days later, try a mushroom and a strawberry on a turnip leaf, with a few sowbugs on top, lightly garnished with calcium powder. Mmm, mmm, good! Do not use the same food for two feedings in a row. And you really don't need to feed a "balanced meal" each time. Using a wide variety of foods over time will balance the diet in a more natural way.

Box turtles can get into unhealthy "addictions" if fed the same food frequently. Use a very wide variety of foods and don't feed the same items two feeding in a row. Avoid overuse of live wiggly foods, as this is a common cause of picky eating habits. Additionally, make sure to provide cuttlebone or other source of calcium, so that the turtle can self-regulate calcium intake.

Lighting:

Good lighting is important physiologically and psychologically. Reptiles need access to direct sunlight or a replacement source of UV-B rays, e.g. ReptiSun or Reptile D-Light, available at petstores. An additional incandescent bulb is needed for its warmth and light. Set the incandescent bulb so that it warms one area of the terrarium to about 85F. Allow another section of the habitat to remain cooler. Turtles that do not see light for at least 12 hours a day can stop eating and become inactive. (Black lights or other special basking lights are not necessary, in spite of what pet store sales people might tell you.)

Temperature:

Box turtles do well at a wide range of temperatures. Indoors, no additional heat (other than a warming lightbulb during the day) is necessary. Outdoor enclosures must provide a way for the turtle to avoid extreme heat (heavy shade in at least one area, deep burrowing capability, and a pond.) Twice daily sprinkling may be required in hot, arid regions. In areas where overnight temperatures are likely to drop below 60°F., a ceramic heater (available at pet stores) may help keep the turtle comfortable in one area of the enclosure. Indoor habitats should provide a cool area and a warm area. During the day, keep one area at about room temperature (68-72F.) with a basking area as warm as 85 (maximum). Overnight temps can drop to about 60 and 75 (maximum).

Answer 3

North American Box Turtles

Natural History Information

Species:

The Common box turtle, Terrepene carolina, currently has 6 subspecies recognized:

Eastern box turtle, T. c. carolina

Gulf Coast box turtle, T. c. major

Three-toed box turtle, T. c. triunguis

Florida box turtle, T. c. bauri

Yucatan box turtle, T. c. yucatana

Mexican box turtle, T. c. mexicana

The Ornate box turtle, Terrepene ornata, has 2 subspecies recognized:

Ornate box turtle, T. o. ornata

Desert box turtle, T. o. luteola

There are also two other species of box turtles:

Coahuilan box turtle, Terrepene coahuila

Spotted box turtle, Terrepene nelsoni

Size:

Box turtles average around 5-6 inches in length, but some like the Gulf Coast box can attain 8 inches in size.

Habitat:

Due to their need for microclimate environments, box turtles can be found in a wide variety of places including oak and hickory woodlands, grasslands, river-bottom land, pastures, fields, meadows, forests, dune, and in pond, marshy or swampy areas. In Mexico, they can be found in scrub forests and brushy grasslands.

Sexing:

Male box turtles about 90% of the time are found to have red or orange irises, while females tend to have yellow or brown irises. Sometimes eye color may not be enough to determine the gender of a turtle. Males and females have been found with opposite eye colors as well as green and white irises. Another way to tell the gender of a box turtle is to look at the lower half of the plastron (bottom shell). Males will have a concave (depressed) plastron, while females will have a flat or slightly convex (pushed out) plastron. Even further, the shape of the turtle's shell might help determine the box turtle's gender. Females typically have shells that are higher domed and rounder in appearance as opposed to males that seem to have a lower shell height and more oval or oblong appearance.

Breeding:

Early spring and sometimes into early summer are the normal breeding times for box turtles.

Nests:

Females normally lay their eggs May through July.

Eggs:

2-8 eggs may be laid, though 4-5 eggs are the average. Larger females may lay larger clutches than smaller females.

Incubation:

75-90 days is typical for box turtles eggs to incubate and hatch. Clutches laid late in the season may see the hatchling turtles remaining in the nest to over winter (in northern areas) and emerge the following spring.

Mature:

Box turtles mature around 10 years of age.

Food:

Omnivorous. When young they are chiefly carnivorous, and as they mature and grow they begin to include plant based food sources into their diet. They do not switch to an all plant diet, as some people mistakenly believe. Their plant to animal material ratio evens out to about 50/50 as adults.

Animal based food sources include, but are not restricted to: snails, slugs, worms, insects of all kinds, crayfish, spiders, millipedes, frogs, salamanders, lizards, snakes, smaller turtles, small mammals, and ground nesting birds. Sometimes they may be seen feeding on carrion rather than actually hunting various animals down. Box turtles have been seen to actively attack small ground-nesting birds and their eggs/babies.

Plant based food sources include, but are not restricted to: sub-aquatic herbaceous plants, strawberries, blackberries, blueberries, mulberries, may apples, mushrooms, dandelions, pigweed, various vegetables from raided vegetable gardens, etc.

Notes:

Females may be capable of laying fertile eggs for up to four years after a single mating.

Box turtles are believed to be the only known agent for dispersing the seed of the May apple Podophyllum peltatum

Box turtles have been known to eat mushrooms that are toxic to humans. The turtle's body is able to retain the toxins. The toxins may then poison any person who eats the turtle.

In the summer, activity is mostly restricted to mornings, overcast days, or after rains in order to avoid the heat of the day. The turtles control their body temperatures by moving from one microclimate to another.

Lifespan is estimated to be on average of 50 - 75 years, but some have been said to exceed 100 years.

T. c. bauri and T. c. triunguis are apparently the more aquatic loving of the sub-species; however, I have seen some T. c. carolina that were not adverse to a nice swim in a shallow pond or creek edge.

--------------------------------------...

Tips for Keeping

Account of:

This is only a generalized account of my way for captive care of box turtles so you are allowed room to experiment with within reason to the nature of the specific species of turtle. Some people have success following one path while others have success following another path. There is no true set directive that demands you follow this, this, and this 100% of the time or the turtle will die. Turtles to some extent are very adaptive creatures. You need to find out what your turtle is like, where is naturally comes from, and the natural history of it in its native habitat in order to have any chance for success in keeping them. This account leans more towards the keeping of T. carolina subspecies north of Mexico.

Aquatic // Semi aquatic-terrestrial // Terrestrial ??

The species and subspecies of these turtles occupy a wide range of habitats. It is such a wide range of habitats that it is even difficult to generalize the preferences within a single species much less all of them.

American box turtles are essentially terrestrial by nature, though some (T. c. bauri and T. c. triunguis) tend to prefer being around water more so than the others do. These two are noted for their desire to occasionally swim in a pond and even dive to the bottom to forage among the plants. Ornate box turtles on the other hand are prairie turtles and prefer somewhat drier conditions with preferences for pastures and open woodlands.

Box turtles tend to be most active in warm, wet weather. Passing thunderstorms or a good steady rain usually bring these creatures out of hiding and during the spring this is also the time when eggs will most likely be laid. Box turtles are usually out roaming about in the early morning to avoid the high heat of summer. They also prefer to roam about on overcast days as well.

Indoor / Outdoor ??

Overall I find that box turtles tend to do poorly when kept in an indoor setup so I refrain from that kind of situation whenever possible. Box turtles control their temperatures and humidity needs by moving from one microclimate to another, and this is practically impossible to reproduce in an indoor setup. You will either have it too wet, too dry, too hot, too cold, too light, or too dark. Experience has shown me that they do best when kept in outdoor enclosures. Indoor setups should be reserved for when you are nursing a sick or severely injured turtle back to health or raising small hatchlings that may be at risk from predators in an outdoor setup. For more information concerning an outdoors enclosure, please read the following article: Outdoor Box Turtle Pen.

Herbivorous // Omnivorous // Carnivorous ??

Box turtles are omnivores so a wide range of safe plants (including weeds) should be provided to the turtle to forage on. Some of the best ones to have are dandelions, pigweed, may apples, strawberry, blackberry, raspberry, blueberry bushes, vegetable plants such as collards or swiss chard are also good. Don't feed box turtles items such as hamburger, hotdogs, or raw chicken, or deli meats. Canned dog and cat foods need to be avoided as well. It is always best if you can provide your turtle with naturally found protein sources like worms and insects. It is known that box turtles will scavenge off carrion so if you aren't too squeamish you may on rare occasions put a pre-killed, sliced open mouse into the enclosure. At the very least, the maggots that soon appear will provide the turtle with a nice snack. Lettuce is to be avoided, as there is too little nutritional value in it. Spinach needs to be limited due to the calcium oxalates contained in them. These plants may be high in calcium content, but the oxalates bind with the calcium preventing the turtle from absorbing the calcium into its system properly. A recipe for box turtles can be found at the following article: Box and Wood Turtle (& Tortoise!) Buffet Recipe.

Breeding:

When it comes to breeding, it is best to let nature take its course rather than trying to force the issue and the same goes for the eggs. If your set up is properly done then the female turtle will find a spot to dig her nest and lay the eggs. The sun and natural weather will do the rest. Hatching box turtle eggs artificially may be difficult. In general, eggs will hatch in about 70-100 days after having been laid depending on the incubation temperatures. When letting the eggs hatch naturally outside in the enclosure you will need to make sure that the sides of the enclosure are small enough to prevent the babies from escaping once they hatch out. It is also good to make sure there is a good spot within the enclosure that the female can properly lay eggs in, a nice, soft loose pile of damp dirt or a mini compost pile is good. The baby box turtle in the photo above is that of a one-year-old hatchling while the one below is that of a 3, 2, and 1 year old. If you would rather setup an incubator for hatching eggs you can find additional information at this article: Homemade Reptile Egg Incubator .



Hibernating:

If you are going to allow your turtles to hibernate outside naturally you will need to provide enough loose dirt, loam, leaf litter, compost, and straw for the turtle to bury down in to escape the cold temperatures and frost. Some turtles will go down as far as 18 inches deep. Turtles native to southern areas should not be hibernated outside in northern areas, but rather indoo

Answer 4

well i used to have 3 of them, and there eating habbits are like people, they eat when they want to. they eat everything from letuce, and carrotts, fish, or turtle pellets. yes they come can in the house with th eproper equipment, heating lamp, a rock for them to crawl on, water, with sand at the bottom, and if it is a boy and a girl turtle make sure you have an extra tank with soft sand in it, because if a female lays eggs in the water they will drown : (  they a very good starter animals for kids or first tinme pet owners, and very easy to keep. best of luck with them!!

Answer 5

http://www.turtlecare.net/box_turt.htm

Is a Box Turtle Right for You?

==============================

* Turtles are not Ninja Turtles. They will not perform tricks,

talk, or perform heroic deeds. They don't eat pizza either. In fact,

box turtles spend a lot of time buried in humid leaf litter, dirt, or

the cage substrate. While they can be handled, it is best to think

of them as animals to watch and interact with on their terms.

* Box Turtles live 40 and more years. Are you willing to take on a

long-term commitment? Some box turtles are claimed to be over

a 100 years old! Don't think you can find a home for the turtle

when you get tired of it. Adoption agencies and rescue groups

are being flooded with reptiles that were bought on a whim and

now they are not wanted anymore; museums, schools and zoos do

not want your unwanted reptiles.

* Do you have time to take proper care of your turtle? It takes

about 1 hour a week to thoroughly clean the enclosure, and about

10 minutes a day to feed and observe your animal.

Indoor enclosures need to be kept spotlessly clean, water bowls

need to be cleaned daily. Outdoor enclosures need "gardening"

care. Young box turtles need to be fed daily with a varied diet;

adults are fed about every two days. When you go on vacation,

someone needs to watch your turtle.

The turtle should be weighed and inspected regularly to avoid

health problems.

* Are you willing to afford a turtle? Food will cost you

10-20 dollars a month, depending on what you are feeding. An

initial setup will cost you at least 30.-, but probably more,

if you build it yourself.

Budget about 1 dollar a day for one animal. This budget includes

food, housing, veterinary bills, and miscellaneous expenses.

A box turtle should at the least have a veterinary checkup

shortly after it has been acquired, including an exam, a

fecal exam, and some bloodwork. This will cost in the order

of 100 dollars (cost varies). A yearly checkup with a fecal

exam is recommended.

* Turtles are not cuddly.

While it is OK to handle them, most of them prefer to keep their

feet on the ground in their familiar enclosure. Some turtles love

to have their head petted or their shell scratched.

If treated properly, they can become very

tame and very attached to their owners, clearly distinguishing

him/her from other people. Your turtle may also find ways to make

known his needs to you.

* Even though most turtles are cheap to buy, when they get sick,

they can cost as much as a cat or dog to treat. Are you willing

to pay veterinary  bills for the animal? Are you willing to give

the animal all the medical and personal care it needs, when it

gets sick ? Turtles feel pain, too, and if you are not willing

or able to spend the money, don't get one!!!

Before You Get a Box Turtle

===========================

* Join or at least visit one of the herpetological societies in

your area. Many of them have websites that includes information

on their activities and on animal care.

* Read about your potential pet, talk to people who keep turtles,

and get on rec.pets.herp or anoter herp group, if you have a computer.

* Take the Tortoise Trust Foundation Course offered by the tortoise

trust. You cannot do yourself and your turtle a better favor!

http://www.tortoisetrust.org

* Prepare a comfortable setup for your animal and buy some food ahead

of time. If you animal was an impulse buy, make establishing a setup

your top priority.

The following book is not expensive and it is a great resource. It is

available from Amazon.com, some book retailers, and some pet stores:

"The Box Turtle Manual (The Herpetocultural Library. Series 300)"

by Philippe De Vosjoli, Roger Klingenberg

Basic Indoor Setup

==================

Note: It is best for box turtles to be kept outdoors at least some

of the time. If you are not able to provide an outdoor setup, a good

indoor setup can be made that meets the needs of the animal.

You can then use, for example, a kiddie pool type setup as a

temporary outdoor enclosure during warm days and at daytime only.

(See below.)

* A wood or plastic box, at least 2 by 3 feet (3 by 4 recommended)

and 1 1/2 feet high (box turtles climb well). Aquariums are not  

recommended. One reason is that if the enclosure is going to be anywhere near a sunny

window. When the sun shines at an aquarium, it gets very hot inside,

and your turtle can die of heatstroke before you know it.

A cement mixing box would work well; or you can make your

own box from Formica, or regular wood that you coat with epoxy.

* An incandescent lamp or ceramic bulb that will heat an area of the

enclosure to 85-90F.

* A full spectrum light. Even if a diet rich in calcium and vitamin D3 is fed,

the full spectrum light is beneficial.

* A hide box. A wooden box, flower pot with a hole, or wood bark

are all excellent. Even a cardboard shoebox will do. It is

essential that a turtle has a place to hide. Stress can cause

disease and even death.

* A water dish large enough for the turtle to soak in and hang out.  

About 1/2 inch of water. The turtle must be able to easily get in and  

out of the dish. A flower pot saucer, shallow dog dish, or a paint

tray works well. American box turtles cannot swim! (Asian box

turtles love to wade and are able to swim for short distances.)

All turtles love to soak, especially on hot days, and all turtles

must have drinking water available at all times. (As a rule of

thumb for the depth of the water for American box turtles, the water

can cover the first circle of scutes of the carapace (top shell) when

the turtle is sitting in the water. For Asian box turtles, about an

inch or two of water are best; make it so the turtle can comfortably

stick its head out.)

READER COMMENT: Notes that American Box Turtles do know how to swim and

are seen doing it even in the wild on occasion.

* Substrate for the box. (There is some controversy on this

subject). If newspaper or grass carpet is used, you may want to

provide a box with peat-moss based potting soil for the turtle to

dig in. Box turtles love to burrow. Or you can use wood chips.

If you use newspaper, change it every couple of days. Grass carpet

needs to be cleaned thoroughly every few days (use weak bleach

solution and rinse well). Wood chips need to be replaced every

one to two weeks and must be kept dry to prevent growth of

bacteria. More cleaning is better! If you are lucky, your turtle

will defecate mostly in its water bowl, and you can leave the

substrate unchanged longer. Change the water bowl the moment you

notice fecal matter in it!

  The dust from shavings seemed to cause some irritation leading to

prolapses in my turtles. I now use newspaper or grass carpet

exclusively indoors.

  An ideal substrate from the turtle's point of view is peat-moss

based potting soil mixed with orchid bark, slightly moistened. It

is messier and must be monitored for fungus growth, but the turtles

love it.

  I have also used AlfaAlfa hay. The turtles love it. It needs to

be changed often, and it has a strong smell. I stopped using it, since

I didn't want my room to smell like a stable all the time.

  A colleague swears by  Bed-a-Beast, a ground up coconut

shell litter that you soak to expand. Retains moisture but is less likely to

get moldy than soil (even sterilized potting soil). Fluffy, doesn't compact,

so great for digging. Only drawback so far is with baby boxies--f***s small,

harder to see & clean up because tend to get lost in the bedding. Still,

have had better results with this even with the babies. NOTE: Copycat

bedding by T-Rex is NOT as good (not just my experience), though I sure

couldn't say why.

* Do not use pine shavings. The pine oil is poisonous!

* Avoid coarse and soggy media.

* Corn cobs are not recommended.

Hygiene

=======

* Always keep the water dish clean. Change the water at least once

a day, or better twice. Turtles drink the same water that they

soak and eliminate in. Change the water the moment you see fecal

matter in it.

* Keep the enclosure sparkling clean. It will keep your turtle

healthy.

* Don't leave old food in the box. It attracts ants and other pests.

Use a food dish that you can remove and clean every time you feed.

You can leave fruit and veggies and dried food around all day.

* Not overfeeding will also keep the waste down. Feed small portions

more often.

* Give your turtle as much space as you can possibly afford. In  

this case, larger is always better. More space for the turtle

also means less cleaning for you.

Heating

=======

* Basking lamp.   If your apartment is always warm, one basking

lamp, with a 60W or 75 Watt bulb, suffices to heat the enclosure.

Temperature under the lamp should be around 85-90F. Use a timer to

turn the lamp off at night. Most people use clamp-on shop lamps.

* Heating pads. They are less and less in favor with most reptile

  keepers, mostly because the temperature is hard to control, even if

  you use a thermostat. Also, heat from the bottom is not the usual way

  turtles want to get their heat fix.

  Putting heating pads under substrates--well, someone will dig down and

  sit on it and get too hot.

  Never put a heating pad directly under a burnable substrate. It's a

  fire hazard. Also, if there is no air circulation, things get a lot

  hotter.

  In addition, many turtles will go right for the white pad (if you use

  a pad made for humans) and the wire (thinking it's a yummee maggot), and

  if they bite through the plastic, the turtle gets electrocuted.

  One option is to attach the heating pad to the

  SIDE of the enclosure. This raises the ambient temperature of the cage.

  There are a number of "repti

Answer 6

NATURAL HISTORY

There are four North American species currently available in the pet trade: the eastern box turtle (Terrapene carolina Carolina), the three-toed box turtle (T. c. triunguis), the Gulf Coast box turtle (T. c. major) and the ornate box turtle (T. c. ornata). A Chinese box turtle, Cuora flavomarginata, and a Malayan (Amboina) box turtle (C. amboinensis) are currently being imported for the pet trade. All of these box turtles, unless specifically documented to the contrary by the pet store, have been caught in the wild. (Box turtles often have small round holes in their shell from the pincers used to collect them.) American Box turtles are partially aquatic turtles: unlike aquatic turtles such as the red-eared sliders, painted turtles and other fresh and brackish water turtles, the Terrapene ssp. spend the greater part of their time on dry land within easy range of shallow fresh water. The Chinese and Malayan box turtles (Cuora sp.) are more aquatic than the American box turtles.

The American box turtles are widespread throughout the eastern, central and southwestern U.S. and on into the northern parts of Mexico. Box turtles fall somewhere between the aquatic water turtles and tortoises in their need for access to a body of water and to woody grassland areas with dry sandy soil on top, humid earth beneath. Box turtles forage for food, primarily plant matter, on land and spend much of their sleep time dug into burrows or wedged under fallen trees or rocks, safe from predators. They do, however, require plenty of fresh shallow water (one quarter to one third their shell height); while they are not as adept at swimming and diving as the water turtles, they can paddle around. While this water time is generally used for rehydration and voiding body wastes, some are know to do a bit of foraging of aquatic plants and invertebrates at that time. Omnivorous when young, adults eat mostly vegetation.

As with all wild-caught reptiles, the animals found in pet stores have been under stress for some time. As a result, they are most likely suffering from protozoan and bacterial infections, including Salmonella which is easily transmitted to young children. Additionally, they are usually emaciated and dehydrated due to long periods of time without food or water or being held in areas too cold to stimulate the appetite; many of these turtles will not eat when they are stressed or frightened, and cannot eat when they are too cold. As soon as you can after you take your turtle home, scoop up a fresh fecal sample and take it and your turtle to a reptile veterinarian. (If your turtle is not eating, get it to the veterinarian as soon as possible to check for emaciation and dehydration.) While the f***s is being tested, the vet will check out your turtle for signs of nutritional deficiencies, topical bacterial or fungal infections, beak overgrowth, respiratory and eye infections - all very common in wild-caught animals (and in captive turtles who have not been provided with the proper environment or diet). Make sure your turtle is given all the medication prescribed by the vet. If you have trouble administering it yourself, take your turtle back to the vet to have it done. If maintained at the proper temperatures, fed a healthy varied diet and kept in a stress-free active environment, your turtle may outlive you: some individuals have lived more than 100 years.

Due to the health problems associated with small children putting small turtles in their mouths, it is illegal for pet stores to sell turtles smaller than 4" (carapace length). While hatchling turtles are about 1 1/4", many are full grown when they reach anywhere from 6" (ornate, three-toed) to 8" (eastern, Gulf Coast, Chinese, Malayan). Males have thicker, and generally longer, tails than the females. Males are larger overall and may be more colorful than females. Male T. Carolina have concave plastrons (bottom shells). Depending upon their environment and diet, box turtles will reach full size within 4-6 years, and sexual maturity at four years for males, 5-7 years for females.

All turtles require a two-three month hibernation period at temperatures around 50-65 F.

SELECTING A HEALTHY TURTLE

The time to buy a turtle is not during the fall, winter and early spring when the turtle should be in hibernation. Turtles found in pet stores during this time are likely to be more stressed and suffering from dehydration and starvation than pet trade turtles found during the spring and summer. (If you wish to buy a turtle (or tortoise) during this time, seek out captive breeders or owners who are selling their own, well-established, animals.)

When you pick the turtle up (supporting its body in your hands), it should feel like a weighty, solid turtle - not like a lightweight empty shell. A gentle tug on a back leg should cause the turtle to strongly pull the leg away. There should be no swellings about the face or limbs; eyes should be open, clear, alert. The shell should be firm all over with no slimy or discolored patches. The nose and mouth should be clear - no bubbly secretions, and no clicking sound discernible when the turtle breathes. The beak should be even, free of breaks or overgrowths.



CREATING THE PROPER ENVIRONMENT

Although turtles can be housed in suitable equipped outdoor enclosures, indoor ones will be addressed here.

Indoor enclosures must be at least 36" x 12", or about the size of a shallow 40 gallon tank. Wood enclosures of the same dimensions and high enough so the turtle can't climb out may be built. The insides of such wooden enclosures must be waterproofed with several coats of epoxy or non-toxic based polyurethane, and left to cure for several weeks.

Create the land area using 2-3 inches of good quality plain sterile potting soil slightly moistened. Do not use backyard dirt or soil from a garden, and there should be no perlite or vermiculite mixed into the soil. Mix the soil with finely shredded orchid bark. You may also use plain fir or orchid bark, or deep drifts of alfalfa. Do not use coarse substrates such as sand, gravel or rock which can scratch the shell, opening the way to bacterial infections. Your turtle requires a shelter or hide box filled with additional substrate material, or drifts of fresh alfalfa hay, in which to burrow. This can be made out of wood, cork bark slabs or even a cardboard box with a doorway cut into it.

A water Area can be provided by placing in the tank a dish or pan large enough for your turtle to lay in and shallow enough for it to easily climb in and out of is required. If a kitty litter pan is used, it must be recessed into the substrate, and the turtle provided with a ramp to get in and out. The water must be changed frequently to keep it scrupulously clean.

You will need two heat sources: a heating pad under the tank and an incandescent or spot light over or to one the side of the tank. If using a wooden tank, the heating pad can be placed inside under the substrate. A large hot rock may be used only if it is set into the soil with a pie plate or other heat diffuser is placed over it, bringing it up to just below the surface of the soil; don't expect the turtle to just climb on top of the bare rock. Note that even with the diffuser, this will not provide enough heat over the broad area that is provided by a heating pad. The turtle may also dislodge the diffuser as it burrows around, requiring you to constantly "replant" it.) The heating pad (or hot rock) must be kept on all the time or as needed to maintain the proper temperatures.

The temperature ranges required by the different species are:

Ornate boxes: between 85-88 F/day, 70-75 F/night;

Other U.S. box turtles: 85-88 F/day, 70-75 F/night.

Chinese boxes: 75-85 F;

Malayans: water temperature 78-85 F and air temperature 85 F.

You need to invest in a submersible water heater if you cannot get or keep the water consistently hot enough with the substrate and overhead heat sources. Buy a couple of aquarium or reptile thermometers; they are much cheaper than paying veterinarian expenses or replacing a dead turtle.

Full-spectrum lighting is required in addition to any light used to provide heat. Full-spectrum light mimics the beneficial effects of sunlight, enabling the reptile to metabolize vitamin D3. There are full-spectrum lights made for reptiles. Some are s***w-in types that will fit into properly rated incandescent sockets; others are tubes which slip into fluorescent fixtures. The full-spectrum is an essential part of the calcium metabolization process. With out the specific wavelengths and proper diet, calcium deficiencies will result which may ultimately prove fatal. Use a timer to turn the lights on and off; they need to be on 12-14 hours each day.

Note that the UV waves cannot pass through glass, and 40% of the available waves are lost when the light passes through an aluminum screen; try to have the light shining directly on them.

FOOD

The best time to offer food is after the turtles have had several hours to warm up in the morning. Offer food daily to youngsters, every other day to adults. Since turtles are motivated by sight and smell, offer a varied, colorful diet. At each feeding, there must be both plant matter and animal products. Add vitamin supplement (such as Reptivite) twice a week.

Plant Matter.

A variety of vegetables, greens and fruits must be offered. A grated/shredded salad of carrots or orange squash, green beans, soaked, mashed high quality dog kibble, and fruit (such as strawberries, raspberries, cranberries, blackberries, cherries, plums) should be all mixed together. Serve with some cantaloupe (with the rind), mustard, dandelion and collard greens. For treats, add flowers (hibiscus, rose petals, geraniums, nasturtiums). Occasionally, offer chard, sweet peppers, leftover vegetables and fruits from your meals. (My box