Can't perfect trimming a wave!?

Question

Every time I catch an unbroken wave I do a buttom turn up to the top,then glide back down to the bottom, then the wave seems to force the board to straighten out while the wave is still unbroken. Is this concidered trimming the wave? what am I doing wrong?

Answer 1

You need to use your ankles to dig your rails in. It's not like turning your board on a pivot. It's more like leaning into the wave. It's kind of like turning on a skateboard where you need to lean into the board in order to dig your rail in. Don't let the bottom of your board plane the water - your rails do all the work. Try staying as high on the face of the wave (without going over the falls or out the back), Eventually you will get the feeling of stabilizing your board into a trim.