Can I insulate my basement windows using insulation?

Question

My home has 60 year old windows in the basement, very old, lots and lots of wasted heat in my home in the winter. I am unemployed, not very much money and can not afford to buy replacement windows. I want to cover the whole window (every one) with insulation this winter, until I can afford to buy new windows. Are there any repercussions that will happen as a result of that. I'm thinking of covering them with a "batting" insulation type. Any thoughts if this would be effective or things I should think about, or ideas....?

Answer 1

It sounds like you could use help with Weatherization.  Our electric/gas company-PECO has a program for low-income customers. Someone came in, did an evaluation of the entire house top to bottom, showed us where the main energy loss is from, provided us with a free new Fridgidaire air conditioner and also did insulation for windows that needed it.  It required several days to do it all due to scheduling and whatnot but it was totally free.  Ask if your supplier has something like this.

Answer 2

The only problem with this plan is condensation.  It will be difficult to seal the insulation to the point that you do not get a bit of moist air between the window and the insulation.  Since the windows will not be heated, the glass will be cold.  This will cause water vapor in the air to condense on the windows and get the insulation wet, which in turn will reduce the effectiveness of the insulation and make a mess.

Instead of fiberglass insulation, get some sheets of polystyrene insulation.  Cut these to fit the window hole and fit them in place.  Friction will hold them if you cut close enough, but use some cheap latex caulk to fill the gaps.  This will seal up better and the polystyrene will not be harmed by any moisture that condenses.  As an added bonus, these will look much better from the outside.  You could even paint the back if this is an issue.

These sheets are aviavailable 1/2" to 4" thickness, the store you purchase from may not have some of the thicker panels, they are not real common.  You can layer multiple panels and get the same R value.  I would fill the windows flush with the wall on the inside.  Do make sure you are getting polystyrene -- DOW makes a product that is blue, Owens Corning makes a pink one, there are others.  You do not want the white beaded foam or the yellowish foam with a foil or plastic backer for this project.  They will not handle the moisture well.

Edit - I couldn't help it.  The foil coating on the polyiso products are not a flame retardant.  The aluminum film is at most a few mils thick, a decent flame will burn through in seconds.  The film serves three primary purposes --

1) moisture barrier.  Polyiso does not like moisture without some sort of protection.  Moisture will not degrade the product, but as it gets saturated the R value is reduced significantly.  The cut edges are not wrapped, so they are suseptable to this problem.

2) UV light barrier.  Polyiso does not handle UV light well.  If you see some that has been around for more than a couple of months, you will note that the edges are a dark yellow instead of the bright creamy color inside.  This is due to UV degredation.

3) to enhance the durability of the product.  Polyiso is not structural on its own.  Without a film laminated to it, it would break or puncture very readily.

The aluminum coating is not compatible with masonry surfaces, masonry reacts with aluminum.   I haven't checked the data sheets for other manufacturers, but DOW does not recommend their foil backed products for contact with masonry for this reason.

In short, stick with the polystyrene.  Maybe a few dollars more, but it will serve your purpose much better.

Answer 3

For years my father put largee plasticaroundd every window to help stop the cool air from getting in it worked out well curtains will also help keep the cool air from getting into the house Keep searching for tips and best wishes

Answer 4

Any of the styrofoam insulations will work okay for this, acually according to code, the aluminum coated ones are better due to fire dangers.  Cut them to fit tightly and cut several to make the thickness as much as the window casing will allow, either glue together or tape the edges together and take them out next spring.  Good luck.