Question:

Can I switch to an Intex saltwater chlorinator after having started out with chemicals?

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I have a 15'x48" above ground Intex pool. I have been having a difficult time trying to get the chemicals within range just to be able to swim. I live in the country and use well water that is hard and contains lots of minerals. I have used a stabilizer and ph minus chemicals...as well as chlorinating granuals and shock. Still cannot get anywhere near balanced water and I'm totally ignorant on chemical usage. I have read all the pamphlets and done my testing several times and have followed all the directions. Still no luck. I still do not have sparkling clear water that is ph balanced. I decided to order an Intex saltwater chlorinator generator because heard many good reviews about the ease of use in balancing even difficult water. I just need to know what I need to do when my Saltwater Chlorinator arrives. Since I have chemicals in the pool already, I'm not sure if I would have to empty the pool and start over or can just start from the water in the pool currently. HELP!

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  1. Contrary to what Muss has posted ( I believe he's fresh out of Tech II), you'll find that balancing your water will be a little easier on salt. The pH rise he's going on about is actually quite minimal and often doesn't happen enough to be measurable in a one week period due to the generator alone. One of the key reasons that going salt makes your balancing a little easier is the LACK of other chems you'd be introducing into the pool since your sanitizer level being a little more constant, doesn't introduce wild swings nor usually the need for other speciality chems to be added to make up for these swings. ( which in turn, have their own pH that mess with your water's pH).

    The pH issue you're having now is due to that fill water no doubt ( half the pools I used to take care of were country pools). The high pH and TA that's normally associated with country water are to blame. Getting it balanced is easy, it's keeping it that way, especially with having to top up with that water is the hard part. One thing that I see you haven't mentioned is that TA (total alkalinity). You are testing for it and adjusting it down? Country water is normally high TA and that TA is just about the most important thing to get in range first. If it's not, nothing else will slip into place. That won't change by going salt by the way. It's still important and has to be right for everything else to be in range. It's essentially the "governor" of pool water chemistry.

    In answer to your highlighted question:

    There's not going to be a need to dump your water here, since you're on chlorine already. That's what a salt generator does. It changes salt dissolved in your pool water ( normal salt) into another form of salt. Chlorine.

    Dumping your pool water would only apply if this was a baquacil or bromine sanitized pool since neither are compatible with chlorine.

    You will need to hit the pool shop to buy salt though. There's no wall height given here or if this pool is dished out so I don't have a water volume to go by. Give that info and the model of the Intex generator to your pool shop and they can calculate the amount of salt you'll need to dissolve to satisfy the unit.


  2. You still have to balance your chemicals with a salt chlorine generator. The only thing they take care of is the chlorine. All the regular chemicals apply. They make things easier by allowing your pool to have a constant supply of chlorine. They also cause the pH to rise constantly so you will have to add muriatic acid weekly. If you need help balancing your chemicals I would be more than happy to help. Send me an email with all your chemistry numbers= Free Chlorine (FC), pH, Total Alkalinity (TA), Calcium Hardness (CH) and Cyanuric Acid (CYA) and how many gallons are in your pool.

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