Can i make a cement pond in my garden?

Question

basically just digging a hole lining it then 3" cement over the lining then smooth it over and fill with water.

there wont be any fish going into the pond just water plants,i will also be fixing a pump and filter.

the cement will be standard 1 part cement 3 parts sand

the pond will be 2' deep by m2.

Answer 1

We went for cement as moles ate through our last liner (no one mentions this). You can either give it a coat of special  waterproof paint or use a pond liner making sure the concrete is smooth enough not to pierce it. You can get under lining or use old carpet.

http://www.gardengrowth.com/gardening/ga...

Answer 2

It would be less expensive and make more sense to line it with a pond liner available at a store like Home Depot or Lowes

Answer 3

I would go with a pond liner.  I believe you can maybe paint the liner, but I am not positive.  I finish concrete for a living and if you have frost where you live your pond wouldn't last all too long if you have bad frost.  The frost pushes and heaves things and causes cracking.  If that is what you want to do (concrete pond) all I can say is go for it, but just be aware that it wont last around frost in the winter.

Answer 4

Better to dig the hole with shelves to put plant

pots on and use a pond liner.

Answer 5

Hi

Three inches of concrete will not be watertight you will need to add a waterproofing additive to the mix.

It will also tend to crack at points of stress so two layers of chicken netting will need to be placed into the hole and up the sides prior to pouring in the concrete, although pouring is relative as it will need to be fairly stiff for the sides, slap it around a lot, to ensure it is compacted.  The concrete must be laid in a cointinuous manner, i.e. wet concrete to wet concrete, else it will crack and leak, basically keep mixing and laying, a coffee break may be ok, but no long lunches.

If you want a mini swimming pool, make sure the sides slope outwards towards the top, so ice will slide upwards, rather than push outwards.

Do not worry about a plug-hole, you can empty it by syphoning down the sewer, or rainwater storage, whatever.  If you live where it rains, an overflow arrangement would be useful be useful.

The surface will leach calcium for quite some time, which may affect your planting, surface treatments can be bought from specialist shops.

Do you really need a pump and a filter?

If you go the butyl liner route, make sure the excavation is well blinded with soft (builder's) sand else you will quickly have a sieve.  You will need some large stones or paving to conceal the periphery of the liner, you will need more than you think to overlap the surroundings, and a lot of paving, rocks to conceal it.  Fill with water, before laying paving and rocks.

Hope it all goes well.

Answer 6

you're much better off getting a pond kit, I think they're fibreglas but I'm not positive.. either way concrete is porous and won't actually stay together for more than a few years if it's holding water constantly..

Answer 7

Cement is no use, all it is without fancy words is brick glue. You would need hardcore to give it a fix and it leeches alkalies.

Pre moulded fibreglass or UPVC is the cheaper longer lasting option that doesn't need hardcore, so I'll second the above suggestions.

Answer 8

you don't need to use cement, you can just dig a hole and line it with the black pond liners you can find in any big garden store or home depot. the liners stay in very well and then just fill it with water. that way if you ever move or want a bigger pond or just don't want one at all it is simpler to change

Answer 9

Jethro:

A cee-ment pond is sprayed on gunite. You would have to build forms, reinforce it with rebar, to get concrete to stand vertically. Stick with the other suggestions for a drop in liner, or just dig the hole, use the pond liner with rocks and fill with water.

Good luck!

Answer 10

Yes.  Plan on allowing a drainage hole.  A simple 'plug' is fill hole with silicone & let dry prior to a water fill.  In fall, pull the silicone out and it will eventually drain.  Next spring create a new silicone plug.  This is what I did for bottom piece of my fountain.  I also made sure I had about 6" depth for a float (toilet float that does NOT have the ball) and attached to an outdoor garden hose 'faucet'.  This way the water level never got low enough to damage the pump.

Answer 11

3 parts sharp sand,1 part cement plus concrete hardener plus waterproof add mix.Much cheaper to buy a rubber pond liner.Or if you have an old bath. Sink that in the ground and use it as a pond.