Can i peel my leopard geckos skin when it sheds or will it hurt him!!!?

Question

Can i peel my leopard geckos skin when it sheds or will it hurt him!!!?

Answer 1

just let it be for now, it wont hurt him as hes shedding his dead skin but still its best you just let it do it himeself

Answer 2

Just let it be. It is harmful for it and painful if you do this. Let nature take its course.

Answer 3

Geckos don't have scales, they have skin.  You will hurt him if you peel stuck skin, and damage the new skin underneath.  Also, Leopark geckos eat their skin as they shed it.

If you are talking about skin which is still stuck to him somewhere AFTER he has shed (after a shed - there should be no dead skin remaining on him anywhere, especially the toes), then no, you still do NOT peel it, but you will have to help him get it off by either

1.) increasing the moisture in his moisture hide so he can finish his shed, or

2.) by soaking him in tepid water (don't let him drown, you must monitor him the whole time he's in the water) which comes even with the top of his back (not underwater) when he's standing up in the clear tank or bowl w/lid & holes while he's soaking.

After about 10-15 min., you should be able to EASILY rub the patch of skin off.  DO NOT TUG.  If it is stuck, put the gecko back, and soak him again the next day, and try again.  Be gentle, and DO NOT TUG stuck skin.

If it's still stuck, then use an alcohol & fragrance free moisturizing lotion (like Eucerine), and rub a small amount of it onto the dry, unshed patches twice a day.  Dried skin left on toes can result in restriction of blood flow, and the gecko can end up with deformed toes, or lost toes.

If you can't get the skin off in a few days; consult your vet.

If you don't already know of one, for an exotics/reptile vet in the city of your state, you can contact “herpetologicalsocieties.com“.

I'll also give you a recipe for gut loading insects, and a few links you can look at when you find time.  But, please note my disclaimer:

--Though these sites list the use of play/repti sand, I STRONGLY DISAGREE with this.  The number one killer of Leos is impaction by sand or a loose substrate, which leads to costly vet bills, and even death.  Consult your reptile veterinarian for their opinion.--

GUT LOADING CRICKETS for REPTILES:

The number one problem:

Dried up and malnourished pet store crickets and mealworms. These food items are essentially useless. A dehydrated and unfed cricket contains almost no nutrients at all; refrigerated mealworms are even worse. A lot of the variety in nutrients found in wild insects is actually in the stomach content - usually plant material. We need to duplicate this to provide the best for our reptiles; without the risk of illness/disease/parasites which can result from feeding our pets wild insects.

Please note that wax worms, while fattening, are not nutritious.  Young geckos can eat small silk and phoenix worms, as well.

Basic Dry/Staple Cricket Food:

Equal amounts of dry Iguana food, dry dog food, chick starter mash, oatmeal (you can add dry baby food wheat/rye/barley, etc. as well; even shredded wheat - no sugar).

Grind these items together.  Place in a small lid/bowl for the crickets to eat.  Store the unused portion in the refrigerator or freezer, until needed.

Supplement daily with one of the following: sweet potato, bananas, zucchini, oranges, carrots, strawberries, assorted squashes (acorn, yellow, etc.), grapefruit, green beans, apples, kale, spinach, cactus pads, and just about any other nutritious item you can think of (do not use white/yellow potatoes - these are starchy and only good if used as a moisture source during shipping, and NEVER use Avocado - it's poisonous to most animals).

Provide the dry food and kale at all times (kale is readily available during the winter months, too), rotating the other food items through in succession. The key is variety, and to provide an assortment of varying nutrients. What you are trying to do is offer your reptiles crickets with guts 'loaded' with fresh foodstuffs.

The crickets should be gut loaded for 1-2 days prior to offering them to your reptiles.

Also, provide fresh clean water in a lid/bowl, adding a sponge or folded paper towel to prevent drowning.

  

Don't offer more crickets than the reptile(s) will consume within: 1.) a few hours if it’s a lizard, salamander, frog/toad, or 2.) a few minutes, if it’s a water turtle, so you know the crickets will still be full of the good stuff when eaten.

The crickets should be dusted (shaken in a plastic bag gently to coat them) with vitamins (keep these refrigerated) and calcium D3 powder 2-4 times a week, depending on the age of the reptile.

Be sure to remove any uneaten crickets so that they do not soil your pet's environment/water or bother your pet, once it is full.  Crickets CAN turn the table - and feast upon your pet! Or aggravate them, causing stress and even cessation of eating.

Also be sure the crickets are the correct size for the reptile.  The cricket should be the same size long as the reptile’s head is wide (about the space between the lizards’ eyes).

Good luck with the lil guy, and I hope this has been helpful.

Answer 4

No, do not peel it.  That will damage the scales underneath and cause future shedding problems.  Geckos don't have shedding problems if they always have a humid hide available.  See here for details on how to make one:

http://www.drgecko.com/humidity.htm#Humi...

Answer 5

you arnt suppose to do that. it will hurt them . it comes naturly and dont worry he or she can do it by themselfs!

Answer 6

It is only best if you leave it be! Do not mess with him/her while shedding, My reptile (Snake) sheds and he might feel provoked!

Answer 7

Don't peel it!!!

Answer 8

o dont do that it hurts!!! if you are concerned give him a soak in some warm water. or they make a conditioner you can spray on him sold at petstores that will soften it up.