Question:

Can i run central heating pipes under concrete floors

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i live in a ground floor flat and all the floors are concrete, can i run the central heating pipes under the concrete floors to where the rads will be or do i have to run them around the walls of each room, also if i can bury them is it best to use copper pipe or plastic barrier pipe, what type of fitting if copper eg solder, compression or pushfit and do i have to cover the pipework with any protective sheaths or tapes etc, thanks

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  1. There is an easier way which is to take the skirtings off and run the piping behind - if necessary remake the skirting as a hollow box, but you usually have enough depth where the plaster is missing. This can give you a really neat finish without a lot of hassle. Plan the runs carefully to mnimise disruption.

    The problem with digging up the screed is you can mess up the damp proof membrane when cutting the chases. If you do bury the pipes in the screed, use copper - the only joints should be soldered, and you need to protect the pipework with protective tape.

    (Consider using a microbore system which makes the pipework easier).


  2. You can have pipes in concrete floors the best pipe to use is speed fit plastic and as it comes out of the concrete floor connect straight to copper pipe with speed-f**t connectors. The speed fit is available at most DiY and plumbing merchants.

  3. It depends. If you use copper and mortar over them you should use plastic covered pipe to avoid corrosion problems. You could sink channeling with an access cover if appropriate. Plastic barrier is ok and comes with it's own connectors. It would be less work to run them around the rooms, you can cover them with purpose made plastic trunking, and gain heat into the rooms from the pirework. You can get copper push fit if the joints are visible. The latter system would be quicker and easier all round. And you can spots leaks if they occur!

  4. Hi, I have done this in my conservatory. First I dug a groove out.  Then I made a wooden liner for pipes to lay in, leaving enough room for foam insulation.  Connected all pipes up using solder joints and then capped tray with wooden top level with concrete.  Whilst I was at it I ran a drain down pipe outside the house, this has saved me a lot of work over the years.  I have had no trouble with it.

  5. Not so fast. You can use plastic pipe and indeed run them in concrete. In fact, unless you really want radiators, you can use floor heating via hot water. Repairs get tricky as fixing leaks involve cutting the concrete, but that should be years away. In fact, the underground heating, radiant heating they call it, uses a sealer similar to what is used on submarines. Check it out. It's the best heat there is. No, I don't sell them or have anything to do either them except for liking the system. You should google the term radiant heat.  

  6. The acids in all concrete, will corrode copper pipes eventually

  7. You can use either method. copper pipe underground would need to be type K copper. It is thick walled and comes in rolls that are "soft". you do not put compression or mechanical joints in inaccessible places. Try for no joins under or in cement. You should use 95/5 solder for high temp applications. No special protection is needed for the pipe. It will last 80 years or more. The biggest corrosion culprit is electrolosis from dissimilar metals.

    You could also use plastic and the same rules apply. Dedicated runs.

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