Can you tell me anything about phenolic pool tips.?

Question

Example; is it phenolic resin and leather?

Answer 1

NO TIPS BUT ITS FUN TO PLAY!:-)

Answer 2

My husband says:

"Being a high-end pool player, I've tried all kinds of tips, including the phenolic tips (sledgehammer tips).  They're usually very flat to reduce english when breaking, and so are not good for jumping, but you can get a cuemaker to customize it and make it very round and ideal for jumping.  I've found that inexperienced players or slightly above-average players look for gimmicks to improve their breaks; they think a leather tip slows their break down, when really the problem with their break is they're not hitting the one-ball solidly and they need to slow their break down more to get proper contact.  My final say on a sledgehammer tip is it's not necessary for the break unless you break over 25 miles an hour, never jump the table, and scratch less than one out of thirty-five breaks.  But for jumping, rounded phenolic tips give a big advantage.  I don't know if you're looking to improve your break, but if you are, contact me and I'll be happy to give you a couple of drills and pointers on breaking, and I can explain the indicators the cueball will give you to let you know what you're doing wrong with the break."

I add:

Hope that helped!

Answer 3

Phenolic pool cue tips are made of roughly the same material that pool balls are made of.  Often the tip and ferrule are all one solid piece of phenolic resin.  The tip is textured so that it will hold chalk, but there is no leather in it.  I'd like to give a cue with a phenolic tip a try, I just haven't gotten around to it yet.  I'm, of course, only speaking about a break or jump cue.  I hear some good things about them.  However, there is a chance that they may become illegal to use in major tournaments.  M.D.-BCA Instructor/Referee.

P.S.- I agree with what Lea A's husband has to say about phenolic tips.  They are something of a gimmick.  I'm in no rush to buy one, I just always make a practice of testing a product before I formulate an opinion.  His point about hitting the head ball solidly, is exactly right.  When you don't hit the head ball square, you instantly lose 50% energy transfer into the rack.  The lost energy transfer stays with the cue ball and that's when you lose cue ball control on the break.