Question:

Cheaper substitutes for driftwood?

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That would still look like a hunk of wood? Can you clean a stick well enough to just put it in the tank?

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  1. Do you want the driftwood to look at or is it for  fish to suck on like bristlenose. Any driftwood that you find or buy, make sure you boil it first. Tank hygiene is paramount. If you just want it for looks, there are plenty of stores that selll plastic rocs or wood looking features. Personally I wouldnt use any other wood than driftwood brought from a pet supply store. Just remember to sterilize it before adding it to the tank.


  2. I usually wait until after a good rain and go to the river alot of drift wood washes to the sides or any shallow area. Some taxidermists will give you money for alot of driftwood too just throw some shellac. The use them to mount squirrels fish ect... too

  3. the best way to get your own driftwood is to find some heavy wood washed up alongside a river/large lake.

    take it home,let it dry for a day or so to get rid of the most easily killed attachments.

    give a good scrub with a brush and chlorine water (it is overkill, but i mix a 10:1 water:chlorine solution) soak in the chlorine water is also good.

    let sit and dry for at least 24 hours.

    place in oven for 15-30 minutes depending on size/thickness at 225-275 degrees F, watching carefully the ENTIRE time.

    it should now contain nothing living that can harm your tank.  

    if you plan to mount it so it cannot float/will stay where you put it, just use a piece of slate or other decorative rock and a dollop or 2 of aquarium safe silicone.

    if you plan to seal it, consult your local pet shop for the best product to use. some discolor the wood, some don't last very long, some need to be applied in a number coats over a period of days, it all depends on what you want.

  4. any wood that has weathered well, is not rotting, and can be boiled, and mounted to slate would work fine

    ....take it home and washit well with a brush to remove all of the mud and dirt in every little nook and cranny

    ....soak it in a white bucket with clean water to see if it releases tannins

    ....if it does, you will be glad you did this step

    ....get a water barrel-type container, and soak it for a week or two...then repeat the white bucket and clean water test to see if tannins are significantly reduced

    ....my experience is there will always be a little bit of tannin from unsealed wood (clear expoxy seals wood and ceramics)

    ...also, some woods have more sap in them and leak or ooz if the wood has not 'cured' dry, so also scratch test the wood to see if it is green underneath the sun dried top layers

    ....avoid those....keep searching for 'dry' wood (not rotting)

    ....also, the bleach scrub and oven dry method mentioned in this string is a viable option....yes it will kill germs, dry the wod, evaporate the chlorine and......definetly watch it 100% of the time in the oven.....avoid combustion, yes?

    ...then as it is stated, silicone adhesive to slate will keep it where it is put

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