Choosing another pet snake?

Question

i want to know a bit about Children's, Stimsons and Spotted pythons, things like how big they will get and how big tank i will need

Answer 1

well i love children's pythons. I did work a pet store for a wail and for some reason the spotted pythons did not eat well(but that could be a pet store problem). Children's pythons stay small only getting about 21/2 to 3 feet. They eat mice like most snakes and one adult will do well in a 20 gallon long or 30 gallon tank. They like things around 85 - 90 degrees. Spotted pythons get around 3 to 4 feet a bit bigger than the children's but other than that pretty much the same requirements. Same goes for Stimsons 20-30 gallon tank. Heat and eats mice.

Answer 2

All of the Antaresia family (the family that these snakes all belong to) get to around 1 metre (Spotted pythons may get up to 1.2m) With regular handling, they will grow to be really placid and very good family snakes.

If you are getting a hatchling, for the first year or so you will only need a small tub with a clip-lock top, about 30cm square and about 15cm high with a heat mat to warm the bottom and a few small hides (eg little boxes and some scrunched up newspaper)

After a year it will need a bigger enclosure, but still only about 40cm x 80cm and about 20cm high. They are mostly ground-dwelling snakes so don't need much height in their enclosure, but a few things to climb on is always nice for them.

They are great snakes, our 3yo daughter can handle our 6 month old Stimsons with no problems at all!

Stimmies have the best colouring imo. If you are in Australia, you will find some amazing locale specific animals with incredible markings (look for Wheatbelt Stimsons - they are stunning) Ours is from Broome and she is a dark brick red colour with sandy markings. That said, patternless Children's are really beautiful too. But go with what catches your eye - you will love whichever one you choose!

Answer 3

all of them wont exceed 4 feet and genrally max at around 3 foot. they all need simular care - a warm side of 84-88 and a coolside of around 75 with a night time drop to 70-75. humidity at around 60% and a cage at least 3 feet long for an adult.

hope this helps a bit

Answer 4

i dont know much about this but im also intresed in snakes and am hoping to get one soon, i recon u shood go 2  breeders and petshops and tht shood help as some people cant be trused on internet, im not sayin u cnt trust them just be awair!

sorry no help but good luck! <3

Answer 5

i think a corn snake is great~

I KNOW!! A corn Snake is great they grow 32-42 inches and are easy to look after, they are cheap and really cute they hardly bite becasue they are constrictor snakes, but don't worry they only constirct things like mice and rats. they need to be feed hairless mice to start with then as they get older they start eating mice with hair, these are aviable at breeders and special pet shops that sell snake supplies. The snakes live from 15 to 20 years so be perparded for a nice long life with your snake. corn snakes do not have elaborate housing needs, but must be in an escape-proof enclosure. snake equipment in inexpensive!! Water is well just water hahaha. But like most reptiles they can go months without it... but always supply some!When choosing a snake, a captive bred specimen is the best choice and shouldn't be too difficult to find since corn snakes breed fairly readily in captivity. Look for a snake that is well fleshed with clear eyes, no cuts or scrapes, no signs of mites or ticks, a clean vent, and one that is alert and flicking its tongue. Picking a solid cage is a necessity for proper corn snake care. A 20 gallon long (i.e. longer, shallower version) makes a good sized cage for a corn snake. The most important part is to get a secure fitting lid that can be clamped down. Corn snakes will push at the lid with their noses looking for weaknesses so the fit of the lid is very important.

variety of materials can be used for substrate. Newspaper is the utilitarian choice - it is very easy to clean up, but the appearance in the cage leaves a little to be desired. Indoor/outdoor carpeting ("Astroturf") can be used, and if you cut two pieces you can rotate them by swapping the clean one for the dirty one at cleaning time, and thoroughly washing and drying the soiled one. Pine bark chips are another good choice - the chips soiled with f***s can simple be scooped out, and a thorough cleaning done as needed. Aspen shaving can be used in a similar manner, although it is probably a good idea to move the snake to a separate container for feeding so that the shavings are not inadvertently ingested. Sand, soil, corncob, pine shavings and cedar shavings are not good choices.

Hiding spots should be provided - a hide box (any closed in container like a cardboard box will do) should be provided that is just large enough for the snake to curl up in (if it is too large the snake will not feel as secure). Pieced of bark can also provide hiding spots if on a substrate that allows them to burrow under them. Ideally, a hiding place should be available in both the cooler and warmer ends of the enclosure. A branch should also be provided for climbing.

Water

A water dish will also be necessary, and the water should be kept meticulously clean. Snakes often defecate in their water, in which case it should be immediately cleaned. A heavy dish several inches in diameter makes a good water source. You may find you snake soaking in the dish, particularly before a shed.

Heating

Maintaining the cage at the correct temperature is vital to care of any reptile. A temperature gradient of about 70-85 F (21-29 C) should be maintained in the cage. Under tank heat pads or heat tape can be used, but place only under half the tank so there is a gradient from cooler to warmer. An overhead incandescent light can also be used to provide the heat gradient or as a supplemental basking spot. Corn snakes are from a temperate climate so they do not need tropical temperatures!

Lighting

There are no special light requirements for corn snakes.

Feeding

Corn snakes should be fed pre-killed mice or small rats (small rats are only suitable for larger corn snakes). Hatchlings are started out on pinkie mice for feedings and the size of the prey is increased as the snake grows. The prey item can be as wide or a little wider than the snakes head. Young growing snakes should be fed a couple of times a week, while adults need only be fed one appropriately sized prey item every week or 10 days.

It is not unusual for the appetite to decline around the time of a shed, so feeding frequency can be reduced if the appetite diminishes.

There i Hoped i helped heaps, i too want a snake so i previously have done alot of research!

Bye,