Climbing advice, in general...?

Question

So I've started climbing! Been goin strong for about a month and I love it. Bought gear last weekend. Im moving from 5.8s to 5.9s this week. My general aproach is to find a route thats challenging, and keep doing it till I can do it easily. I just yesterday got 2 that point on one Ive been working on for about 3 weeks. My plan is to replace it with one of the 5.9s, but continue using it as a warmup, going for speed on it. I also use the same strategy with the bouldering, and I climb a fairly even mix of both. I climb one day, workout the next, then climb the next day, etc...

So My question: How does this sound to some of u more experienced guys?

Im tryin to take it slow and actually get really good at it as I think I've found my sport! Dont wanna compete or nothin just have fun, and stay in shape.

Thanks in advance!

Answer 1

This sounds like a solid way to teach yourself and track your progression!

It's good that you aren't pushing yourself too hard or climbing everyday, it's important to find a balance between climbing and cross training without injuring yourself.

I say, keep it up!

Welcome to the climbing community!

oh, just a heads up, I don't know what kind of exercises you're doing on your day off, but to improve your bouldering skills you should really add some good core workouts. Sit-ups alone don't really do a whole lot, I'd go for some v-ups and bicycles and 6-inches. Most people don't know an important part of bouldering is core strength   ;]

Answer 2

Remember that not all 5.8 routes are the same or require the same skills. You may be able to climb 5.9 face routes but only be able to do 5.7 crack climbs. Work on all the different techniques and skills at the same time and don't worry about the rating - just challenge yourself.

I suspect you are getting stronger and that is pushing your advance into harder and harder routes - just be careful as pure strength will only get you so far. You will find that some techniques - especially footwork - will be needed to advance. Climb with others and give each other pointers and you will learn them.

Good Luck

Answer 3

I'm a pleasure climber, I climb because I enjoy it. The more often I climb the better at it I am. Keeping yourself in shape, having a good diet and exercise plan always work well no matter what activity you should choose. The key basically is (that I have found) the more you climb the more skilled you get. eventually your muscles will be ingrained in the typical skill and technique that you  are involved with and it will become second nature for you muscles to do what your mind wants them to do. Practice, practice practice, it applies to everything you want to do in life well.

Answer 4

Be careful playing the numbers game...people get injured pretty quickly by climbing a single route at one difficulty rating then moving up to the next immediately without becoming more well rounded and developing skills. Damaging tendons, joints, and pulling muscles are typically the most common injuries.

Just because you can climb 1 or 2 routes of a specific difficulty level doesnt mean that you have mastered that rating. There is a lot of variety between routes of the same rating. The different routes will push body positioning and technique. This will allow you to build endurance and strength that is necessary for subsiquent levels. I firmly believe in the "pyramid" approach: Climb and experience several routes of the same difficulty rating to become proficient at several techniques and getting your body ready for the next level.

I know a climber who has done a 5.11, however, I rock him on a majority of the 5.9s b/c he jumped from rating to rating w/o fully developing his skill set. He knows how to climb these specific routes, but put him on a 5.9 that he hasnt done before and he struggles a lot. In the end he is limited in what he can climb. To him it is all about being able say "I can climb 5.X..."

To me, that isnt what climbing is about, it isnt about a number. The number is intended as a guide to allow you to determine what you are capable of doing safely. For me, climbing is my stress release, my escape from "society". It is about being out in the middle of nowhere, disconnected and just letting go.. However, where I live, there are very few places near by that have a great deal of 5.8s and below... so for me to be able to enjoy the sport w/o having to drive 5hrs, I have to be able to climb at a higher rating to be able to enjoy my outdoor activities. That is what pushes me to get better. The number is irrelavent.

As for exercises on your non-climbing days, focus on the climbing muscles: forearms, grip, legs, back and of course core (abs and lower back).

Simply put, dont worry so much about the numbers themselves. But develop yourself into a well rounded climber. Your peers should be helping you develop necessary skills and techniques, not simply how to finish a specific route. You develop the skills, and the route wont matter, you will have the tools necessary to climb it.

Answer 5

It's sounds like you've found your niche.  As long as you are seeing improvements within your performance, you have to be doing something right.  Another thing to think about now that you've mastered 5.8s for the most part, think about down climbing the route as well or doing them in laps.  I wouldn't think so much about going for speed when you're climbing a top rope route but perhaps how efficiently you climb it and how you feel when you're done.  The less pumped you feel as you're climbing is building your endurance and your technique.  

I find that doing laps (just climbing the route 5 times in a row without break) and down climbing (tracing your steps) gives you another way to look at a route, and works great on your lock offs.  As you get get to harder routes, start thinking about your finger strength as well.   More crimps and more slopers.  Congrats to moving up to the 5.9s and keep us updated :-)