Concrete sidewalk against stone foundation - drainage?

Question

I have a short concrete sidewalk that butts up against the stone foundation of my house (about 100 year old house). Whomever poured this slab (3 squares - 2 expansion joints) originally tried to join it to the foundation. It has of course heaved and cracked off the stone, leaving a large gap, and making water enter my foundation wall whenever it rains.

I want to fix this. A mason contractor recommended vinyl patch - which I'm thinking might just destroy itself over time as the sidewalk heaves again.

My solution - can someone please tell me if this is correct (assuming I'm demolishing and re-pouring the slab):

1. Form a short straight edge of concrete, joined to the stone foundation as deep as the sidewalk to give the concrete slab something flat to butt up against vs. the uneven stone.

2. Pour the concrete slab, making an expansion joint between the foundation wall and the new concrete.

3. Pitching the concrete away from the foundation (its a 4' wide slab) to drop about 4".

Answer 1

sounds like a plan make sure you compact the dirt under the slab and only give it about a 1/8" pitch in 4' or it'll be hard to walk on

Answer 2

A mild pitch is good, the pour tight is not good. Concrete

draws up when drying leaving an expansion crack .

do this.

Remove the slabs.  Next to the house   dig down about

2 feet and place 2 layers of plastic or roof membrane

the length of the slab .  take roof cement in the tube and

glue the roof membrane to the rock foundation . glue

it to just about 1/2 below the new projected slab edge.

In the ditch excavated place 4 inches of wash gravel

upon the plastic or rubber membrane the full length

of the trough. Lay a piece of black 4 " flexible

drain pipe extend to just under grade  give it 2 ' fall

down a slight embankment make the pipe drain out

on to the ground or into a ditch. Cover the drain pipe

with wash gravel then place a piece of plastic over the

drain and then cover with a thin layer of dirt . lightly

pack this soil and then start building your forms for

the slab replacement. Place 2  pieces of

corrugated cardboard covered with waxpaper

the length of the new slab. Begin pouring concrete ,

place the cardboard between the foundation wall and

the newly poured concrete. Screed off concrete to

sidewalk grade, trowel the finish with a float and

then if you want lightly texture the concrete surface

with a broom or whitewall painting brush. Let cure

and dry. Wet the cardboard between the wall and the

new slab when its damp pull it out this will leave

a gap about  3/8"  inch wide. Let dry and then use

a butyl rubbersealant to make an flexible expansion

joint. Useduct tape adhered to the slab edge next

to the wall to minimize over sealing on the concrete.

Peel off the tape before the joint rubber skins over.

Remove quickly and you will have a clean edge on

your joint.  The drain is overkill but any water that gets

under the slab will be drained by the drain pipe.  

If you are overly concerned about the wall drainage

dig down to the foundation footer and install the

drain there instead as instructed previous.

Follow the same steps except bury to 12 " inches

below slab grade and tamp soil to give a firm base

for pouring the slab upon.