Question:

Corn Snakes and Hibernating?

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I just wanted some good information on hibernation of snakes I have Corn snakes and just want to know some useful facts and knowledge on the topic. Any information is helpful and appreciated. Thanks!

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  1. If you keep their enclosure at a stable temp (mid 70s) you can enjoy them year round without hibernation.  You can Wikipedia corn snakes for other useful information.


  2. Most of us do not brumate our cornsnakes unless we are breeding them.  In some areas where cornsnakes are indigenous, they never really hibernate at all as the temperatures do not get low enough.  I have successfully brumated my breeding adults at 55-65 degree temps as long as I've kept them in a darkened area that's quiet.  Ideally temperatures should be in the low to mid 50's.  If you intend to brumate your cornsnakes, you need to stop feeding at least 2 weeks and preferably 3 before actually brumating so that they have no food to rot in their stomachs.  I place my breeders in plastic tubs that have air holes drilled in them and a layer of aspen.  I also put a bowl of water in there and then place them in a cool closet and cover with a blanket to block out any light.  I don't brumate until late November and keep them in brumation until February.  As I stated before though, brumation is not usually done unless you plan to breed.  There's no need to do so otherwise.

  3. I brumate my snakes by placing them in my garage. I try to keep them between 50 and 60 degrees, and I use a small heater with thermostat to keep the temperatures from dropping below 45 degrees.I live in Texas where the winter weather can be 70 one day and 40 the next. I once got caught off guard and the temp in my garage dropped to 38 with no problems.

    I keep them in Sterilite bins with aspen bedding and a large water dish, which is important since they still drink. I cover the bins with black sheets to keep them in complete darkness, since in the wild, they go into burrows or other dark places with no light. I feed them heavily in the fall and stop 2 to 3 weeks before placing them in the garage to give them time to clean out their systems since cooling them down with food in their stomachs can be deadly to them. I begin brumation on December 1 and bring them out on March 1. I do periodically check on them to make sure they have water and to see that they still have sufficient body weight to continue. If one is looking skinny, I take it out of brumation. After warming them back up, I give them a couple of days and offer a smaller meal than normal. Giving a normal sized meal usually results in regurgitation. After the first small meal, I give normal sized meals and feed the females extra to give body weight for egg laying. When the females shed for the first time after brumation, they get introduced to a male and the rest is history!

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