Question:

Cutler Hammer GFCI 20 Amp Breaker?

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I just installed a electronic timer and 20 Amp twistlock recepticle outside for my above ground pool. I did everything to code, THWN in Schedule 40 PVC pipe, LB to house, tied off inside house with a junction box and 12/2 to the load center. In installed a GFCI breaker and tied it all together. My question is, I used a line tester( The ones that beep when it detects voltage) on the GFCI black wire and sure enough live, did it on the white wire attached to the breaker and nothing, did it again on the pigtail attached to the neutral buss and it to did nothing. Is it normal with a GFCI breaker that the whites would not carry voltage? why would the line tester show current on all the other neutrals in the panel. Thanks for your help.

JC

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  1. you didn't do it to code,,,, pools can not be fed with Romex,,,,the ground  must be insulated all the wait back to the panel,, also the ground can not be splice with standard wire nuts

    there is a difference between voltage and current, the "line test" just sense electrical fields if you rub it in your hair it will also beep,,, you should have a meter and learn how to use is

    you also mentioned nothing about you bonding grind which is the most important safety feature about wiring a pool

    you also need to add a 120 convenience outlet more the ten feet but less than 20 feet away for the pool(these distance just change and i don't have a code book in front of me but the outlet still needs to be added)

    YOU SHOULD NEVER MIX WATER, ELECTRICITY AND IGNORANCE

    my advice for any do it yourself-er that insists on wiring their own pool get life insurance for your family

    edit----- code nec article 680.21   "any wiring method employed shall contain an insulated copper equipment ground"

    edit  680.23 B 3  "the grounding conductor shall be connected to a grounding terminal in the supply junction box"

    ask for a pool junction box at any supply house and they will give you a brass junction box with 4 terminals for the grounds wire nuts fail they are just a plastic cap with a spring in it they ground for a pool is to important to count on a spring

    edit---680.26b2 (680.26 deals with bonding)

    (2) Perimeter Surfaces. The perimeter surface shall extend

    for 1 m (3 ft) horizontally beyond the inside walls of

    the pool and shall include unpaved surfaces as well as

    poured concrete and other types of paving. Bonding to perimeter

    surfaces shall be provided as specified in

    680.26(B)(2)(a) or (2)(b) and shall be attached to the pool

    reinforcing steel or copper conductor grid at a minimum of

    four (4) points uniformly spaced around the perimeter of

    the pool.

    edit you need to bond the pool water

    (C) Pool Water. An intentional bond of a minimum conductive

    surface area of 5806 mm2 (9 in.2) shall be installed

    in contact with the pool water. This bond shall be permitted

    to consist of parts that are required to be bonded in

    cheap half *** electricians with find exception around some of these rules but this is the thorough correct  and safest way to do it


  2. a line tester(hot stick) will occasionally give a false hot reading on a neutral. they are not reliable for neutrals. this is probably correct. if the pump is not running there is no voltage on the neutral. test with a meter.

  3. Alpha dog is right, the other neutrals in the panel may have been going to things that were 'on'.

    With a GFI breaker (d**n expensive!) the neutral is "monitored" by the breaker, and if you were to turn on the pump motor, then the neutral would show live.

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