Do beetle's cause permanent tree damage?

Question

I have a cherry tree that is finished producing fruit for the year, and beetle's are now eating the leaves. Will this damage the tree or will it produce fruit next year anyway? If I must get rid of them, what non-chemical method can I use?

Answer 1

if the tree is not newly planted, but is mostly mature and healthy, then nothing is needed... beetles have been munching trees for eons ..... young trees could be defoliated and suffer real damage, but the older trees will be fine.... they'll look a little raggedy if you look close, but those chewed leaves will be the first to drop.... there's no reason to spray anything at this point.... you won'[t put a dent in them and new ones will come from next door to replace those you DO hurt....and you'll have wasted money on a poison that will prob kill other stuff that we DO want around...... and the  beetles will be gone in a couple weeks anyway... what you need to do NOW is get some Milky SPore down to kill the grubs that will hatch out from the eggs they're laying now.... that will help in years to come.....

Answer 2

May be it is japanese beetles.,Use neem oil as a organic pesticide if you need only organic method., or you can use chemical named ACEPHATE @ 2gm per liter of water and spray.Definetly japanese beetle cause huge damage to trees.

If you are ready to read the following it will be more helpful.

Control Strategies

Adult Control

Option 1: Cultural Control - Hand Picking

By noticing when the first adults arrive on a property, you can pick off and destroy these scouts that attract additional pests. The adults are less active in the early morning or late evening. They can be destroyed by dropping into a container of soapy water.

Option 2: Cultural Control - Plant Non Attractive Plants

The adults do not like to feed on ageratum, arborvitae, ash, baby's breath, garden balsam, begonia, bleeding heart, boxwood, buttercups, caladium, carnations, Chinese lantern plant, cockscomb, columbine, coralbells, coralberry, coreopsis, cornflower, daisies, dogwood (flowering), dusty-miller, euonymus, false cypresses, firs, forget-me-not, forsythia, foxglove, hemlock, hollies, hydrangeas, junipers, kale (ornamental), lilacs, lilies, magnolias, maple (red or silver only), mulberry, nasturtium, oaks (red and white only), pines, poppies, snapdragon, snowberry, speedwell, sweet pea, sweet-William, tuliptree, violets and pansy, or yews (taxus).

Option 3: Cultural Control - Trapping

Several traps using a floral lure and s*x attractant are available. These traps are not recommended for general use unless special conditions can be met. The traps have been demonstrated to be effective in reducing damage and populations only when landscapes are isolated from other Japanese beetle breeding areas or when mass trapping (everyone in the neighborhood) is used. In most urban areas, traps tend to attract more beetles into the area than would normally be present. In this situation, adult feeding and resultant grub populations are not reduced.

Option 4: Chemical Control - Insecticide Spraying

The adults can be controlled by spraying susceptible plants with insecticides. Over-the-counter pesticides available for this include: acephate (Orthene), carbaryl (Sevin), and several pyrethroids - bifenthrin, cyfluthrin, deltamethrin, lambda-cyhalothrin, permethrin, and others. Applications of imidacloprid (=Bayer Advanced Tree & Shrub Concentrate) generally need to be made 20 days before anticipated Japanese beetle adult activity. During the heavy adult activity periods, sprays may be needed every 5 to 10 days.

Grub Control

Option 1: Biological Control - Bacterial Milky Disease

The bacterial milky diseases, Bacillus popilliae Dutky, has been quite effective at controlling the grubs in certain areas of the eastern United States. The spore count must build up for 2 to 3 years to be very effective and during this time you should not use an insecticide against the grubs that are needed to complete the bacterium cycle. In Ohio and Kentucky, test trials have not produced satisfactory results. Additional experiments are needed to determine the lack of efficacy of milky disease in these soils.

Option 2: Biological Control - Entomopathogenic Nematodes

Insect parasitic nematodes have recently become commercially available. Products that contain strains of Steinernema carpocapsae (Biosafe, Biovector, Exhibit, Scanmask) have been marginally effective against white grubs in turf. Preparations containing Heterorhabditis spp. seem to be more effective. Apply the nematodes when the white grubs are small. Irrigate before and after applying the nematodes.

Option 3: Chemical Controls - Insecticides

The grubs are best controlled when they are small and actively feeding near the soil surface, usually late July to mid-August. However, with the development of new grub control chemistry (e.g., imidacloprid [Merit] and halofenozide [MACH2]), applications in June and July have sufficient residual activity to kill the new grub populations as they come to the soil surface in late July through August. Control of grubs in late-fall or early-spring is difficult, at best, because the grubs are large and may not be feeding. Only trichlorfon (Dylox) and carbaryl (Sevin) formulations are available for such rescue treatments. The key to good control is to make an even application and water thoroughly.

Answer 3

It is truly will destroy your tree if you put any dangerous insects like bugs. You can do some examination on your beetle's tree