Question:

Do you cut the sewing pattern at the same time as fabric?

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Or do I cut it first and then apply to fabric?

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  1. I would highly recommend cutting out the pattern first, and then pinning it to the fabric.


  2. You cut the pattern pieces apart so you can lay them out according to the fabric grain and design (there will be a diagram in the package with the pattern). You don't need to trim the pieces completely before you pin them to the fabric. Cut through both pattern and fabric after everything is laid out properly. Happy sewing!

  3. I always cut them separately...

    I USUALLY trace off the most correct size onto Dot & Cross paper, after ironing the pattern sheets.  Ironing them means there are no hidden creases so the size you eventually cut is more accurate.

    Once I have a copy of the pattern, I make any alterations I need to customize the fit.

    This means that I always have the original pattern to go back to in the event of a fitting disaster.  Remember to transfer all the pattern markings such as dots, notches, grainline, etc. to your copy.

    If using expensive fabric for your garment, or something you cannot replace, it pays to make a toile, or practice garment first to check fitting issues so they can be eliminated before cutting the expensive stuff.

  4. I cut the pattern and the fabric at the same time, its faster and just as accurate.

    If the pattern pieces are all together on one sheet, I do separate them, before pinning to fabric.

  5. For a beginner, I recommend cutting the pieces to the correct size before you start to pin them to the fabric.  Why?  When they print a stack of sizes, it's easier to see what line goes with what size when you can sit and look at them against a plain background.  An untrimmed pattern can lead you to make mistakes while you're cutting your fabric.  You can tape a miscut pattern back together and try again, but that doesn't work so well with fabric. <g>

    When you're more sure of your pattern reading abilities, then you can do it any way that pleases you.

    Three more tips for you:  

    1) When you're cutting your pattern apart,  get out a big straightedge and draw in the grainline on the whole pattern piece -- just extend that grainline arrow as far as you can.  This makes it easier to get the grainline exactly lined up on your fabric -- measure over from the selvage to the top and bottom of the grainline.  Shift the pattern piece around until the measurements are the same.  If the grainline is properly placed when cutting, sewing is much easier and the garment doesn't do odd things while you're wearing it, like twist when you walk or pooch out in odd places.

    2) Conventionally, we teach home sewing students to cut the notches (those black diamond shaped thingies) outward on a pattern.  That's a pain to cut, and they are not so accurate.  I find it much more useful to cut off the notches on the pattern piece (making a smooth edge) and then notch the pattern by

    making a straight clip 1/4" long into the seam allowance, as if I were cutting the remaining triangle in half from base to tip.  This is not a very long clip, nor is it particularly easy to see --- so you can remark that with a bit of tailor's chalk or other marking instrument.  The clips are then precisely placed for matching your seamlines, and the chalk marks help you find the clip.

    3) Practice cutting with your shears before you start cutting your fabric.  Keep the lower blade of your shears on the table while cutting -- you don't want to lift the fabric and pattern off the table any more than you have to -- the farther you lift, the more inaccurate your cutting. Don't pick up small bits like facings or pockets and cut them in the air, either.  Even though cutting is the most boring part of sewing, it's also the stage at which it's easiest to s***w up a garment permanently.  So take your time and do an accurate job.  Also, cut with the longest strokes of your blades you can... if you're cutting with short, choppy strokes, you'll get jaggy curves that don't sew well and don't match up well.  Use the entire cutting surface of your blades, from base to tip.

  6. You really don't have to cut the pattern out completely beforehand.  What I like to do is cut them out just enough to separate the pieces I need -- but I don't worry about cutting carefully along the lines.  I'll leave a cushion of several inches around the pattern piece.

    This gives me separate pattern pieces so they're easy to place and work with.  When you lay them on the pattern piece, that's when you cut along the lines.  Another benefit of this is that you don't propogate errors.  If you miss the line a little bit cutting out the pattern piece, and then miss the line a little bit again cutting along the fabric, the errors can add up.

  7. I always cut out the pattern first.  It allows me to lay out the pattern in the best way to conserve fabric--and it's kinder to my scissors!  Paper--even the tissue paper that patterns are printed on--will dull your scissor blades very quickly.  Use a separate pair for patterns and other paper.

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