Does anyone find it really distracting...?

Question

To go from a bar sized table to shooting on a 9 foot table. It totally throws my depth perception off and i either end up hitting the cue ball way to soft or way to hard?

Guess i need more practice...or just give up on bar size tables all together.

Also anyone know any good billiard halls in Manhattan? [believe it or not i've lived in NY my whole life and still dont know the place, i'll be spending this summer down there and need to keep up my practice ya know.]

Thanks!

^_^

Answer 1

I think everyone picked up the main points as far as moving between tables of different sizes.  From personal experience, it has been about table quality more than size.

As for Manhattan, try this:

http://amsterdambilliardclub.com/

I've heard good things about it and know a couple pros practice there.

Answer 2

Hi April.  The main difference between playing on a bar box and a 9 ft. table is 16.5 square ft. of playing surface.  The biggest problems that I encounter when switching from 9 to 7 are clusters and speed control.  Like Johnny says, more often than not, 9 ft. tables have better cloth, better cushions, and the tables usually play faster.  Very often bar tables have gullies in the cloth so you really can't play at pocket speed.  Your balls will drift off course on this kind of cloth, so you have to increase your speed to keep everything in line.  This goes against the philosophy of "speed kills".  In general, we're taught that the harder you hit a shot, the smaller the pocket becomes and I agree with this 99% of the time.  It's kind of a balancing act when dealing with less than ideal playing equipment.  Aiming really shouldn't be such a factor.  You should visualize the shots the same way regardless of table size.  The balls are the same size and the pockets are fairly close to the same, so you don't really need to adjust for that.  Shotmaking tends to be easier on bar tables in my opinion.  The shelves are cut very shallow for corner pockets, so balls that would normally rattle tend to fall in.  Coin-op tables will have a slightly heavier cue ball, so you definitely have to adjust your tip position.  With a heavier cue ball, you need to go lower than usual for draw and also lower than usual for follow.  Playing position for follow is much easier on a bar table with a heavy cue ball.  I wouldn't give up on bar boxes.  You just need to make a few adjustments to your game.  In terms of strategy, running out on a bar table is more difficult due to the congestion, so work on your safety play.  With that in mind, be aware that safety play can be difficult on a bar table because kicking at balls is much easier with smaller dimensions.  When you become better at breaking up clusters and controlling your speed, you'll be able to switch back and forth with few problems.  Can't help you with Manhattan, unfortunately.  M.D.-BCA Instructor/Referee.

Answer 3

Cant help with new york just look out for Ginkey

9ft  vs bar box 9 should be easier more room ball control may be more the playing surface more than your shooting(better cloth -rails ect) bar boxes are not the best of tables I use quality cloth and rails on mine but most dont

like the man said practice a few racks before you put your money down

                                                          Happy Hunting Johnny

Answer 4

Learn a few set practice drills that will quickly get you used to a new table. Try placing an object ball one cue ball width from head rail about 4 inches from pocket , mark this spot.Now place cue ball at first diamond out and center table, mark this.

now with top rt play object to pocket and cue 2 rails to opposite lower corner pocket w/o scratching.Once you have that down play same shot with no English allowing cue to drift down table to same spot. Next use bottom to play 2 rail draw to same spot. At end of drill you will know table speed.

Luck,

Kevin