Dometic RV fridge not running.?

Question

I just got a Three year old Dometic fridge (model 2652) for my 1987 RV. I had a Norcold in it that took a dump. When I bought it from the guy he had it running with 12v from his truck and it was working. I installed it in my RV and I get nothing. Plugged into the 110 outlet I have no lites lit or anything. The 110 is there into the box. Is there a elec/gas/12v switch I am missing? Relay? Missing part? Drawing a blank here. Appreciate the help. Thanks.

Answer 1

IF you have a Dometic RM 2652 (probably other models as well) that does not operate on 120V ac or propane.  No lights, no power, not 12 volt or anything.  Many of these are doing this.  Mine was and I tracked it down.  It was working fine and suddenly nothing.  All the visible fuses on the lower control panel and in the RV were ok and the propane was ok.  I had 120 volt ac and 12 volt dc to the fridge.  If yours is not powering up at all do this;  Pull the cover on the outside of the rv and find the 12 volt power block, four connections with two wires one set white and one set red.  Follow the red wire (positive 12 volt), it goes in behind the heater, you have to pull the heater cover (over to the right with 2 or 3 screws) to expose it.  You will notice that the red wire appears to be covered with a plastic covering such as heat shrink tape) and is folded back on itself, it then it continues up to a thermofuse on the heat stack.  Most likely the problem is the thermal (not the thermo) fuse (melt fuse or TCO Thermal Cut Off) located under the heat shrink looking material.  The fuse is designed to melt at 152 degrees C and most are installed too far back into the heat source and will melt too easily.  It is designed to melt in case of a fire or overheat situation, but they open up without either occuring.  All you have to do is remove the red wire from the 12 volt block and the thermofuse connection.  Then slide the heat shrink looking covering back and it will expose the thermal fuse TCO.  Get another TCO off from ebay or NET electronics for a few dollars and replace the one on the red wire.  Put the red wire back in but don't slide the TCO fuse so far back into the heat source as it was.  You should be up and running.  If you want to check this to make sure this is the problem before you take it appart just run a 12 volt meter with the negative probe on the power block white wire (negative side) the other probe on the thermofuse where the red wire connects to it.  If the thermalfuse TCO is bad you will not have 12 volts at the thermofuse connection.  Yes that is correct, the red wire leaves the power block, goes to a thermalfuse TCO or melt fuse then it goes to a Thermofuse (that has a reset button) then to the lower control panel board that powers and controls your 120 volt ac and propane.  If you get confused just follow the red wire.   Charlie A