Feeding my snake frozen mice?

Question

Hey guys, I seem to be having a dilemma feeding my pastel ball python thawed mice. i fed it twice already with live mice, but now i need to feed it thawed mice, and it won't eat. It has been 9 days since it last ate. It seems to be comfortable in it's tank, because it crawls all around it and bakes out in the open.

Here's how I attempt to feed it: First, I put the frozen mouse in a ziplock bag, then submerge it in hot/warm water. I leave it there for about 10-20 min, sometimes changing the water to keep it warm. Then I take it out, it is warm, and I use feeding tongs to grab the rear of the mouse and i wiggle it around the snake. The snake sees it, touches it, sticks its tongue out, but never eats it. I've been trying to feed it for the past 4 days, because I usually fed it every 5 days. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Also, I thought it was a possibility that the snake was shedding. The eyes aren't black, but more of a greyish. The body of the snake, however, looks normal (or at least normal to me). It sometimes rubs up against the water bowl and the edge of the hiding space (a half log). Does that sound like it's about to shed? If so, maybe that's why it won't eat. Thanks!

Answer 1

the snake could be shedding.  before it sheds the snake will go back to looking normal.  the oils in the skin come out to help the skin come off so about 2 days before shedding your snake will look normal.  that could be a possibility of the snake not eating.

if your snake is off of food don't try to feed your snake every day.  if you feed your snake every 7 days and it doesn't eat when offered food wait until 7 days before feeding again.  if you keep trying every day it will stress your snake out (it will stress you also).  when i feed frozen after the rodent is completely thawed i put it under a heat lamp to get warmer.  while the rodent is warming i take my snake out and put it in it's feeding tub.  then i drop the rodent in.  if the snake doesn't take the rodent right away i just leave the snake in with the rodent for a while.  usually with mine if they haven’t eaten in about an hour i put them back in their tank and then try again on the next scheduled day.

really young baby snakes (under 6 months) can go about two months without food before worrying about it.  snakes 6 months to a year can probably go 4 - 5 months before worrying.  adults can go on  "hunger strikes" for a year and be fine (personal experience with the adults).  if your snake is acting fine and isn't losing muscle mass (has good muscle tone) then don't worry about it.  however if it becomes worrysome you might have to try live again.  in the animal world ball pythons are more stubborn than daschsunds (i also have 2 doxies and they are pretty stubborn).  i have two adult ball pythons that will not switch to rats so i have to feed mice and most of the time they wont eat frozen thawed so i have to give in and buy live every once in a while.  

i am assuming that your snake is a baby if it is a baby i would limit handling until it eats again.  if it is an adult then it would be ok to handle as normal.

good luck!  

Answer 2

It sounds like the snake is ready to shed if the eyes aren't clear.  Ball Pythons can be finicky eaters also and sometimes never take to frozen mice.  Just keep trying and if the snakes weight becomes a concern then continue with the live mice while trying frozen in between.

Answer 3

not sure about thawed mice but i have an idea. i feed my ball python knocked out live mice. kinda sad but buy them live then bash their heads against the inside of the tank. this way my luther doesn't get hurt and eventually it shouldn't be a problem if we decide to feed it frozen food. maybe you could try a transition?

Answer 4

If he isn't used to eating dead mice, then thawed is a really big leap to take.  Try braining the mice (cracking the skull open and rubbing the blood from the brain on the fur) the blood from the brain smells really good to your snake, and will entice almost any snake out of an eating strike.

If he is getting ready to shed (which judging by the eyes turning a lighter color, generally milky, sometimes with a bluish tint) he isn't going to want to eat, they don't eat when they are shedding because they cannot see, so it makes hunting and judging if something is good prey more difficult, plus shedding is already uncomfortable.  Rubbing is also a sign that he is going to shed.  Try misting him with a spray bottle a couple times or supervising him in a plastic tub with water to promote a healthy shed, as an incomplete shed can lead to all kinds of nasty problems!

A snake can go quite a while between meals with out starving, my snake will go up to 3 weeks in times of shed, and that is perfectly okay.

Answer 5

Your humidity may be low if he's rubbing.

You are doing correctly to convert the snake to frozen/thawed, except... you must make SURE the guts are warm.  They are the last place to thaw.  So, before you offer the prey, hold your thumb on the tummy and move it around for several seconds (count to 10 slowly) and see if you detect any 'cold' by feel).

I sit my refrigerator thawed prey items at room temp. for 2-3 hr., before the warm soak.  I feel the belly of EACH prey item, before feeding.  If it's cool at all, I reheat it.

The glazed eye is either a shed staring, or a health issue.  Increase the moisture by about 10%, and see if the body sheens.  Snakes entering a shed will seldom feed.  Make sure he has a ceramic crock large enough to soak in (fill it 1/2 way so it doesn't overflow when he gets in it).

And wait.  It takes about 2 wks. from glaze/soaking, to the eyes clearing again, and shedding.  Don't let him miss two scheculed feedings, if the skin didn't fog and you aren't sure it's a shed.

If his skin looks great the whole time, and just the eyes are foggy, then consult a vet.

If you don’t already know of a qualified exotics/reptile vet in your area, google: “Herpetological Society” -or-

http://www.herpvetconnection.com/  for the one closest to you.

The "rest of y'all don't hate the messenger."  I'll contest your dozen answers to just one which needs help.  If HE knew - he would't BE asking!

My answers are not directed at the collector, and I'm tired of mail from collectors asking WHY I said that.  My goal is a healthy pet, and happy owner.  NOVICE owner.  We ALL started SOME WHERE.

This can also be husbandry.  You need a digital probe thermometer or a good.Infrared themperature gun to monitor the temps.

Reptiles are slow to show signs of illenss.  By the time they exhibit symptoms, it's usually progressed.  And they heal slow.

If you see no further sign of a shed in a couple weeks, and he has not eaten - consult a vet.

Again, not eating for a snake is normal before a shed.

The thing to watch for now is his eyes to go normal again.  Within 3-4 days of that happening, he should shed.

If his eyes are clouded for a mo.?  Take him to the vet.

If you don’t already know of a qualified exotics/reptile vet in your area, google: “Herpetological Society” -or-

http://www.herpvetconnection.com/  for the one closest to you.

I don't mean to cause you panic.  I just hope to help.  I remember MY first snake...

**ADD - more answers came in while I writing this... I would not try to feed a snake with glazed eyes.   And any snake, for feeding t/f, I would only refreeze the item once.  If the snake won't take it on the 2nd attempt, then trash the food item.  It's no longer a healthy meal.

Answer 6

My snake stops eating before there are signs of shedding. About a week after, he starts to "rub" against things.I believe yours is getting ready to because of the cloudy eyes.