Firewood splitting wth wooden wedges?

Question

my grandfather in the 60's/70's use to split his firewood with a maul/steel wedge/and a wooden wedge. ......is it a lost art/practice? I am trying to find some information on how to on this info.........I know the basics of he use to drive something like a steel collar on a straight shaft, but what type of wood?dry or wet?...etc...nobody I ask seems to know what I am talking about......any info would be appreciated.....

Answer 1

While I'm not as old as your granddad I still split wood this way.

I first cut the un-split log into fireplace lengths (about 24 inches) and then stand the cut log on end. I then position the steel wedge in the center of the log holding it by hand while tapping it with wedge until until it (the wedge) has sunk into the log about 3 inches or enough that it is into the surface and supports itself.

At this point strike the wedge as hard as you can with the maul driving the wedge into the log. Keep driving the wedge in until the log splits in two. Depending on the size of the log (diameter) and the type wood being split you can often split the log with one wedge. On larger diameter logs and some twisted grain woods you may need two wedges.

If you drive the wedge all the way until the head of the wedge is even with the surface of the log you will need a second wedge. Your granddad may have used a wooden wedge for this purpose.

Stick the second wedge into the split already created by the first wedge, but as far down into the split as possible, Drive it in to further widen the split and the log will divide.

Continue splitting the log halves until you get the size pieces you need.

You will enjoy doing this.

Answer 2

the wooden wedges were made of oak.

Answer 3

While the answers above are correct, most old time wood splitting was done after the wood had seasoned or the temps were low enough to freeze the wood. Makes splitting a whole lot easier.

Answer 4

I split many cords of wood in WA, state, mostly Oak for an indoor wood burner. I used a metal Maul, when the Ax. wouldn't work, using the Hammer side of the ax.

   The issue with WOODEN wedges is that they should at least be a hardwood, and will still splinter. If you use a Maul enough you'll notice mushrooming the wide/head end.

   I have no info on the rest of your Q however, steel collar, straight shaft????????????????

   Wood to Burn, most especially indoors, should always be hardwoods, OAK being the most common. Soft woods/ Conifers are not acceptable for indoor burning.

   Obviously seasoned/Dry wood is not only better for fires, but easier to split. Wood stoves/heaters seem to be extremely trendy, no matter where one lives, but I am constantly amazed by people who create huge supplies, covered outside, by tarps, or even roofed over, open sheds.

Just my two "sense"

Added thought: Certainly there are power driven, hydraulic SPLITTERS.

Answer 5

What you are referring to is a glut.

Wood is used for more than fuel.

It was not uncommon for woodworkers

who worked wood green

- that is undried,

unseasoned,

fresh from felling

still high in "bound" water content

to split trunks into "bolts"

with a glut - a wooden wedge used

specifically for splitting or riving wood

See:

http://countryworkshops.org/Glossary.htm...

http://www.greenwoodworking.com/

http://www.living-wood.co.uk/

for more information

Don't know what your grandfather did for a living

but I see no reason why he couldn't have used

a glut for splitting firewood as it works fine for lumber