Framing a kitchen ceiling...?

Question

Could someone provide me step by step instructions on how to frame an interior ceiling? The dimensions of the room are 16'x28'. I have an idea on how to go about this but need some confirmation.

Answer 1

I'm guessing that you are running your joists along the shorter dimension.  Is there anything above the walls now?  The best way to frame is to have your joists sit on top of the double top plate.  Start your layout so the joists sit directly over the studs for the strongest ceiling.  Toenail the joists with 3 16d nails on each end, 2 on one side of the joist and 1 on the other.  Cut the joists to allow for the rim board: 1-1/2" for 2x10, 1-3/4" for TJI rim board or Microlams.  Add a lath catcher along the walls if needed, run a row of bridging (if using 2x10) down the center, and you are good to go.

If you are not able to set the joists on the walls, nail a doubled header to the wall.  Use 4 16d nails on each stud, as well staggered lag screws which will run through both header boards.  Stagger your joints on the boards.  Lay the first joist in a hanger as close to the wall as you can.  Secure using the recommended nails and pattern.  Set the next joist at 15-1/4", then every 16" after that.  Be sure that your layout is square.  If you are using 2x10, run a row of bridging or solid blocking down the center of the span.  This will complete the project.  Hope this helps.

Answer 2

Since you are just doing a "false"ceiling which means there is no load from the floor above, you can use 2" x 6" lumber. Run a band of 2" x 6" around the perimeter at the desired ceiling height. Use a laser or level to get it right. Use 3" coarse drywall screws and s***w the 2" x 6" into each wall stud using 2 screws.

Now layout each long wall (28') walls on 16" centers.This is where your ceiling joist will attach to the band board. Use joist hangers to hold in place. Fasten just one side of the joist hanger into the 2" x 6" band, leave the other side loose until you place each ceiling joist in the hanger, this will let you do this by yourself. Measure each joist length and cut just a little shy so you don't have to fight them into place.

Now if you have room above - snap a center line on top of the ceiling joist at their center. Nail a 2" x 6 " flat on this line into each ceiling joist, then install a ceiling joist on edge up against the flat one. Nail it into the edge of the flat 2" x 6"-we call this a strongback brace.

Now find the existing old ceiling joist up above and install a lag eye ( this is a s***w with a hole in the flatened end. Run another lay eye in the strongback brace you just installed. Put these about every 4' running down the strongback brace. Use # 9 wire and run through both lag eyes and twist wire tight.

Now run all your lighting circuits, and ceiling ductwork if you have a need for it. Then you can install the drywall, or whatever ceiling finish you choose. Check your lumber carefully when you pick it up - get good straight lumber, maybe even a few extra in case you overlook a couple bad twisted boards. Stagger the butt joints in your drywall, and use 1-5/8" coarse thread drywall screws to install the ceiling.

If the room might be out of square, square it up before installing the ceiling joist, set the ceiling joist to the new square line. Otherwise you might be cutting every sheet of drywall to fit.

Good Luck