Question:

Geckos???????

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I want to get a gecko but I have a few questions.

1. What is a cheapspecies of gecko

How much are leopard geckos

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  1. i have a crested gecko and he was about $80. he is a really easy breed to take care of. they came from the mountainous area so a heating lamp isn't needed. he is my favorite!


  2. hi

    one of the cheapest geckos is the leopard gecko   and the run between 17-40 dollars for babies  with all different color morphs  they are really easy to take care of and they eat crickets. if you don't want to feed crickets then maybe a crested geckos would be good because it can eat baby food as its main source of food as well as crickets   but the prices can get kinda high for babies  like 75-80 dollars    and like 55-80 for adults (cheaper one don't have tails)  

    if you have any care questions please email me dgoogs1515@yahoo.com

  3. MANY KUDDOS for researching your animal BEFORE you get it.  But, if cheap is what you're looking for - then a Leo may not be the right pet for you.  It's going to take an average of about $200 to get everything you'll need, and then to set it up and be ready before you bring the reptile home.

    You will need:

    A reptile aquarium (minimum size for a baby is 10 gal., but it's VERY difficult to set up the warm and cool side in a small tank) - An adult Leo needs a minimum space of a 20 gal long reptile tank (these have more floor space than an aquarium); -A good digital proble thermometer (strips thermometers can be inaccurate by up to 20 degrees); -A UTH heat pad; -A Rheostat to adjust the heat output of the pad and lights; -A basking light; -A basking perch; -A hide for the animal; -A shallow water bowl; -Substrate if you decided on reptile carpet (make sure this has a very short nap so delicate toes aren't snagged, and you will need two pieces - one to use while the other is being washed and drying), or you can use plain brown wrapping paper; aged newspaper (at least a week), paper towels; or plain white paper (NEVER use sand or a loose substrate); -Reptile vitamins & calcium powder (Rep Cal is a good brand, and keep these refrigerated); -and A small cricket keeper mini-tank to gut load his insects in before feeding them to him; -And a moisture hide (but you can make this easily).

    Once you get all that - a common color gecko will run $20-$40, depending on who you buy it from.

    I'll post a basic gut loading recipe here for you, and list some links below to get you started on the research you'll need to do to learn about the gecko's temperature requirements, and how to set up his warm and cool ends in the tank.  But, please note my disclaimer.

    GUT LOADING CRICKETS for REPTILES:

    The number one problem:

    Dried up and malnourished pet store crickets and mealworms. These food items are essentially useless. A dehydrated and unfed cricket contains almost no nutrients at all; refrigerated mealworms are even worse. A lot of the variety in nutrients found in wild insects is actually in the stomach content - usually plant material. We need to duplicate this to provide the best for our reptiles; without the risk of illness/disease/parasites which can result from feeding our pets wild insects.

    Please note that wax worms, while fattening, are not nutritious.  Young geckos can eat small silk and phoenix worms, as well.

    Basic Dry/Staple Cricket Food:

    Equal amounts of dry Iguana food, dry dog food, chick starter mash, oatmeal (you can add dry baby food wheat/rye/barley, etc. as well; even shredded wheat - no sugar).

    Grind these items together.  Place in a small lid/bowl for the crickets to eat.  Store the unused portion in the refrigerator or freezer, until needed.

    Supplement daily with one of the following: sweet potato, bananas, zucchini, oranges, carrots, strawberries, assorted squashes (acorn, yellow, etc.), grapefruit, green beans, apples, kale, spinach, cactus pads, and just about any other nutritious item you can think of (do not use white/yellow potatoes - these are starchy and only good if used as a moisture source during shipping, and NEVER use Avocado - it's poisonous to most animals).

    Provide the dry food and kale at all times (kale is readily available during the winter months, too), rotating the other food items through in succession. The key is variety, and to provide an assortment of varying nutrients. What you are trying to do is offer your reptiles crickets with guts 'loaded' with fresh foodstuffs.

    The crickets should be gut loaded for 1-2 days prior to offering them to your reptiles.

    Also, provide fresh clean water in a lid/bowl, adding a sponge or folded paper towel to prevent drowning.

      

    Don't offer more crickets than the reptile(s) will consume within: 1.) a few hours if it’s a lizard, salamander, frog/toad, or 2.) a few minutes, if it’s a water turtle, so you know the crickets will still be full of the good stuff when eaten.

    The crickets should be dusted (shaken in a plastic bag gently to coat them) with vitamins (keep these refrigerated) and calcium D3 powder 2-4 times a week, depending on the age of the reptile.

    Be sure to remove any uneaten crickets so that they do not soil your pet's environment/water or bother your pet, once it is full.  Crickets CAN turn the table - and feast upon your pet! Or aggravate them, causing stress and even cessation of eating.

    Also be sure the crickets are the correct size for the reptile.  The cricket should be the same size long as the reptile’s head is wide (about the space between the lizards’ eyes).

    As with any new pet, I always recommend that when you get the new lizards, you have the animal checked by a qualified reptile vet for general health, disease, and parasites.  This way, if something IS wrong you can return it to the place of purchase for a refund (I don't recommend exchanges because if that one is sick, then others there are likely to be as well).  If you don't already know of an exotics/reptile vet in your area, you can contact “herpetologicalsocieties.com“ for the one nearest to you.

    An informed owner is a happy one who has a healthy and content pet.

    Contratulations on choosing a Leopard Gecko.  Good luck with your new pet, and enjoy.

    I hope this has been helpful.

  4. I disagree that he never needs heat. What if the person lives in a very cool climate? I also disagree they are easy for everyone. For some people, yes. Not everyone.  Research their care before buying at anapsid.org. If you are looking for "cheap" you may not have thought about the cost of a proper home, vet care and good food over his whole life. Always better to adopt or get from a breeder than a pet store where they are usually wild caught and often ill from improper care. Look for your local herp club! Research, research, research!
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