General tips, tricks & setting advice for my Pentax K1000?

Question

I’m relatively new to photography, and have had no training – I just work with my mother’s original instructions (pretty basic stuff), and the experience I gain with every shot.

That said, please don't be afraid to use professional terms. If I don't understand exactly what you're talking about, I'll Google it. =]

I’m just looking for any tips & tricks anyone has to offer. New things to try, neat lighting effects, that sort of thing. Although I love to experiment, money is tight at the moment, and I’d like to have a basic knowledge of the settings I should use before I go wasting film.

Some things in particular I was interested in playing around with: Turning the lights out, placing a blacklight over objects and shooting them. How should I go about doing this, while achieving an image very similar to what I see through my eyes?

Additionally, does anyone have any advice for nighttime shots? Once again, I’d like to achieve something close to what I see through my eyes. I’ve been trying to master nighttime shots for awhile now, but I just can’t seem to get it right. =[

As for indoor shots, if I’m looking to achieve shots with somewhat of a shadowy detail, are there any settings I should keep in mind?

Thank you very much for any help you have to offer!! I really appreciate it.

Answer 1

As for UV ...since your night pictures were answered...I used 5.6 at 1/13 of a second, ISO 1600 for this shot, using 2 UV lights, one on each side http://www.flickr.com/photos/perki88/385...

There are a few other UV shots on my site and since they were digital, you can read the info on them. I would only assume that film would require the same readings.

Answer 2

Unfortunately the type of long exposure photography you're asking about can be a bit hit and miss with film so the only option is to experiment, that wont be wasting film if you learn something from it.

First of all get a tripod then set up the camera and use the Bulb shutter speed. When you press the shutter release the shutter will stay open until you press it again so you can make exposures as long as you want, Try bracketing exposures at different settings. Also bear in mind that the human eye is much more flexible and adaptable than film which has less sensitivity and dynamic range so you'll rarely get exactly the effect your eyes see especially in low light photography.

Answer 3

Successful night/low-light, non-flash photography will require a tripod and a cable release. It does not require extremely high ISO settings or shooting with your lens at f1.7 or f2 or a lot of random guesswork.

I have used the FotoSharp (http://www.fotosharp.com) Day & Night Exposure Guide for years. It has 20 Scenes and costs about $20.00. Here are a couple of examples:

Scene # 11, Floodlit buildings, fountains; Outdoor Christmas lights; Candlelight close-ups

ISO 100

f4 @ 1 sec.

f5.6 @ 2 sec.

f8 @ 4 sec.

f11 @ 8 sec.

ISO 200

f4 @ 1/2 sec.

f5.6 @ 1 sec.

f8 @ 2 sec.

f11 @ 4 sec.

ISO 400

f4 @ 1/4 sec.

f5.6 @ 1/2 sec.

f8 @ 1 sec.

f11 @ 2 sec.

Scene # 14, City skyline in distance

ISO 100

f4 @ 8 sec.

f5.6 @ 15 sec.

f8 @ 30 sec.

f11 @ 60 sec.

ISO 200

f4 @ 4 sec.

f5.6 @ 8 sec.

f8 @ 15 sec.

f11 @ 30 sec.

ISO 400

f4 @ 2 sec.

f5.6 @ 4 sec.

f8 @ 8 sec.

f11 @ 15 sec.

Your idea about using the blacklight really isn't covered but you might try this: Scene # 13, Night clubs with dim lights

ISO 100

f4 @ 4 sec.

f5.6 @ 8 sec.

f8 @ 15 sec.

f11 @ 30 sec.

ISO 200

f4 @ 2 sec.

f5.6 @ 4 sec.

f8 @ 8 sec.

f11 @ 15 sec.

ISO 400

f4 @ 1 sec.

f5.6 @ 2 sec.

f8 @ 4 sec.

f11 @ 8 sec.

Since camera lenses are designed to give the best results at between f5.6 and f11 you'll probably get your best results somewhere within that range.

As you try these suggestions, keep a notebook with the settings used for each frame. If the results are not to your liking (too dark or too light) try again and vary the shutter speed. If your results are too dark add a second or 2; if they are too light reduce exposure by a second or 2. Always make your exposure adjustments with the shutter speed. I learned long ago to never change more than 1 variable at a time.

Trying to judge the available light using our eyes is difficult. Our eyes work much differently than a camera lens. To get a better understanding, try this simple experiment. Place a 4 watt nightlight in the wall outlet in a dark bathroom. Allow your eyes to fully adjust and then see if you can read a magazine or newspaper 3 or 4 feet away from the light source. Now try taking a meter reading of the magazine with your camera's meter. I doubt you'll get one unless you use the highest ISO (ASA) setting your camera allows.

I also recommend buying a copy of "Object & Image: An Introduction To Photography, Third Edition" by George M. Craven. Buying a copy of "How To Select & Use Pentax SLR Cameras" by Carl Shipman would also be a good idea.

If there is a Walgreen's Dugstore in your area look in the Sunday paper for their ad. Last Wednesday (6 Aug.) they had a coupon for processing and printing one roll for free. Often they'll offer coupons where you pay for one roll and get one done for free. Other retailers may offer similar coupons.