Getting out there when the waves are crashing too high???

Question

OK, I'm a beginning surfer, I've been able to catch waves that are small, like 90cm using a 7'10' NSP, really without any problems.

But then I tried with a 7'6" in waves that were about 1,90m and the first time I was able to swim out past the break by waiting between sets (thou I think it was luck), but then I didn't get up on the board once.

Then later when I tried to get out past the break 82 different times" I couln't do it. The waves crashed so hard they kept throwing me back to shore. I tried diving under with the borad, diving under with the board being pulled by the leash, by holding onto the bow, by holding onto the fins while going under, I even tried just staying on top and letting the board float over...but no way.

I just couldn't get out,

So, what's the trick, and what am I doing wrong????????

Answer 1

i had the same problem, in this situation the waves are to big to turtle roll or anything, so what i would do is the normal push up till i get out to the point where the waves are bigger, then i would bail, this is when you just let go of your board and swim under the wave, you should not feel the wave at all, just a slight tug on your leg with the leg rope, swim back up top hop on you board and then start swimming, you should not loose any distance and you should still be in the same position.

cheers Daniel

Answer 2

I applaud your efforts to try get out on a bigger day. Sounds like you tried all the right techniques. Depending how CONSISTENT the waves are and the fact that your board is too bouyant for you to duck dive there will be days that it may not be worth the effort. I've seen days when even the Pros had a hard time getting out.

I've been surfing decades and now only surf a longboard so duck diving is not an option (although I have done it on a 9 ft board). I have been out on days when it took me forever to get out and by the time I made it out I was out of gas...the current too strong to get in the right position...then maybe catching 1 wave and deciding that it's too much work to get back out.

Now when it's big and very consistent I will watch for a long while and see if anybody else is making it out and then evaluate it if it is really worth it. Don't be ashamed if you can't make it out...it happens.

Turtling works depending on how big the white water or how close the wave is breaking to you...but on a very consistent day, turtling can be very exhausting.

Bailing your board should be avoided at all cost except in an emergency. The guys paddling behind you may not take kindly about being hit by your loose board. It also shows your inexperience.

Get to know all the breaks in your area. Depending on the swell direction and tide conditions some spots may be better to go surfing on those big days. Some may be more protected than others during certain swells. Find out by asking your local surf shops.

I give you an A for effort though...82 times...wow...if I think it's going to take me over 15 minutes just to get out I won't even try...I'm an old f**t and don't have enough energy to expend.

- mahalo-

Answer 3

your biggest problem is your board it to big and fat and the wave just eats it up.

and im not saying that the board is c**p im just say to big to get out.

and because u are a girl your body isnt as strong to withhold your ground when the wave hits.

id say just wait on the beach for a bit wait for a smaller set to come through and when they to hit the water and paddle as hard as you can.

a turtleroll would be ok but it seems the waves are going to pull you back no mater what/

id say when the wave is like 10meters ahead just bail off ya board and dive under the wave as far as possible and when the wave gets ya board just swim as hard as you can under the water.

also dont get embarrassed if you can tget out .

if you have a guy friens or boyfriend get hi to help you.

i help my gf in the way when she goes under the wave i hold her and when she comes back up i swim and push her out as fast as i can so she gets past the next wave.

hope this helps

Answer 4

A 1.90 m wave is equivalent to a six foot wave.There's no reason why you can't use the Turtle Roll to get beyond the breakers. It's too tough to try to duck dive with a 7'10, or 7'6 board. Especially an NSP, which are very buoyant. Check out this link:

http://www.surfline.com/mag/features/lea...

Answer 5

Kombi86, stop being sexist. i know ur just trying to help but girls can totally do anything as good as the guys can.

Answer 6

all you have to do is turtle roll. when you are paddling and you see the wave about to break, flip over so the fins on the baord are in the air and it looks like you are tring to paddle upside down. make sure to grip the rail well though, because you might loose the board. then when the wave has passed, flip back over and continue paddling. hope this helps. have fun surfing!

Answer 7

OK, I'm assuming you're surfing at a beach break, not a point or reef break (as with those you can paddle around the breaking waves)

It sounds like you're trying the right techniques. Duck diving is an acquired skill (one that, as a long-boarder, I've never really managed to acquire).

My advice would be to try 'turning turtle'. As the wave is breaking towards you, lie flat on the board and grip the rails near to where you'd place your hands when you're popping up. When the wave is about a metre away, roll the board over, so the bottom of your board is uppermost and you're underwater hanging onto the deck of the board. Gripping over the end of your board can help as well.

When the wave has passed roll the board again and get paddling!