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Going to Juneau, Alaska in early Sept. - what's best?

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For folks who know the Juneau area, what are must-see places, and good lodging to stay at? Outdoor and nature excursions are best, but don't think I can pay for the expensive guide packages.

Also, hotels seem to be either "airport" or "downtown". Are the downtown hotels in a noisy and in an inner city neighborhood? Will be there one week, and from Portland, OR, so don't know what Juneau's like. And any things to eat / places to eat that are found only in Alaska? Thanks to all for any suggestions!

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