Has anyone ever raised wild pheasants?

Question

My dogs got into a pheasant nest and ruined two of the eggs. I put the remaining two in an incubator and was amazed when they both actually hatched yesterday. I have them under a heat lamp and have given them water and fed them meal worms and pheasant "starter" and parsley. The chicks are doing well. (Before anyone tells me that what I'm doing is illegal: I do not live in the USA.) Has anyone else ever raised wild pheasants?

Answer 1

I suggest a large cage becuse if they are cramped Togather theyed eat each other.

Answer 2

HOUSING

Down-covered young birds should be kept in a cardboard box indoors away from pets and small children and out of direct sun or drafts. Keep the temperature in the box between 80ºand 90º F. A lamp with a 40 or 60 watt bulb should provide enough heat, but don't put the lamp directly over the bird. This won't be necessary if the bird is fully feathered.

Cover the box to cut down on disturbance to the bird, eliminate drafts, and prevent the bird from getting out of the box. Put an artificial nest made of a cottage cheese or similar container lined with paper towels in the box. This will support the bird. When the bird begins to get out of this "nest", provide a perch or two for it to rest on. Do not use a wire cage--birds often will get excited and damage their feathers on wire so that they won't be able to fly properly later.

FEEDING

Nestlings require frequent feedings-- as much as every 30 minutes from dawn to dark. One person should take care of the bird to avoid excessive human contact. (Don't tame the bird!). Food should be at room temperature and of soft consistency. The bird shouldn't need water if the food is fairly moist.

Begin feeding young birds with an eyedropper. Fill the dropper so there are no air bubbles. If the bird won't open its mouth when food is presented, gently open the beak by slipping a fingernail between the upper and lower jaws and prying them apart. Put the dropper in the back of the bird's throat, behind the tongue, and slowly squeeze the dropper. Be careful not to get fluid in the breathing tube in the floor of the mouth just behind the tongue. Clean food from the beak and feathers with a moist tissue.

Later the bird will take thicker food and will eventually open the beak when it sees food or it may even squawk when it wants food. Stick the food to the end of a pointed popsicle stick or a drinking straw cut on a slant and give it to the bird. Do not use metal tweezers--they may damage the bird's tender mouth. As the bird grows it will eat more, but less frequently.

FOOD

Birds have a high metabolic rate and a high energy requirement. Bread crumbs and milk are not sufficient. Most baby birds are unable to feed themselves; normally the parents feed them, so putting bird seeds or worms in the box does no good. You have to put the food into the baby. At first you may have to pry open the beak to do this, but soon the bird will realize that you are the source of food (Momma) and will open its beak and squawk whenever it is hungry or when it hears you approach. Feed it when it asks for it. When it has enough it will collapse and sleep until it is hungry again.