Help with a horse that leans on the bit!?

Question

Ok. So I just recently began training a horse that we bred. I have noticed that she is very laid back for a 4 yr old(even though shes on oats and flax oil) and every time i ride her she leans on my hands if i give her too much rein. What am i doing wrong? Ive tried her in a loose ring snaffle, a Dr Bristol and a happy mouth but no change. She works perfectly in draw reins. Should i ride her on a loose rein or a tight contact as i've been recommended to. Apparently she will get tired of constantly fighting me but after 6 months there has been no improvement. HELP!

Answer 1

My old instructor used to tell me that 'it takes two to pull.' It was years before I knew what that meant, but what she way saying is that the horse can't lean on the bit if you don't give her anything to lean against.

What you need to do when riding is give her a dynamic contact, not a static one. In a static contact, you have constant pressure in both reins, which practically invites the horse to lean. In a dynamic contact, you move your hands around, just a teeny bit, to keep the contact changing. So, next time you ride her, shake the reins just an itty bitty bit - as if you had Parkinson's disease  - less than half an inch in either direction. This way, you can still keep a contact, but because that contact is dynamic she cannot lean against it. This will probably make her lighter in the bridle and help with suppleness as well because it moves the bit in the mouth, but allows the horse no leverage to resist. But, its hard to remember to do when you are thinking about a dozen other things. Give it a try - I think it will help.  

Answer 2

ah...THANK YOU for asking "what am I doing wrong?"...finally someone who realizes that what your horse does is just them reacting to what ur doing and no other reason...Lil it means you are pulling on the reins and holding for too long so she is telling you "hey stop hanging on my mouth" so wen u give her rein then give little and short squeezes...you shouldn't be pulling in the first place...pulling causes a horse to collect their HIND END only so they loose impulsion. and u said you have been riding on a tight contact...who ever told u that...well i wont insult their intelligence...but riding with a short rein prevents you from keeping her in a frame because she cant STRETCH from wither to poll and so if you forced her on the bit she would get a Eur neck because shed be hollow in her neck and back but have her chin forcefully tucked to anyway...ride with a RELATIVELY long rein and like i said give little squeezes and keep them very short(like a pulse) so u arent hanging any little bit...=]]

good luck! =]]

Answer 3

I pretty much agree with Dallas--except for i DO think that bit is an important factor. I Also, highly discourage anything with leverage or a curb. I do think that you should stick with a double jointed bit, a french link at first, and possibly a dr. bristol as your horse gets older. The simplest possible bit is the best option for training. Double jointed bits traditionally help with horses that lean on the bit.

Answer 4

Yes - the response is quite often an over response to hands that are too heavy (not quick enough).  Two reasons this could be- if the bit is not to her liking, she may feel she's got to put pressure on to hold it in just the right position to allow her optimum comfort - what about a 3 piece snaffle, a mullen mouth or a simple Comfort Snaffle my Myler?

I would suggest borrowing a bit that's 3 pieces and try that first.  Then work on your hands, you want the reward to be in her relaxing and following your feel - if you ask her to do something, concentrate on her response and immediately release when she complies with your wishes.

Also, are you working a lot at the walk or more at the trot?  If you are working at the walk a lot putting her through her paces, she has more time to think about things and often they'll get bored.  I've made my mare a bit lazy this way.  I correct this by trotting more, asking her to perform lots of different maneuvers and concentrate on releasing when she complies with what I've just asked - this takes focus a step ahead of what you're doing and a bit of a plan.

What do the draw reins do that riding without does?  Does it lift the bit higher in her mouth?  Look at bit placement in proper response vs. placement in just regular reins.

Personally, I am not a proponent of substitute aids such as tie downs, draw reins at the like.  You should be able to teach your horse proper headset with proper communication.  I have recently learned that my mare carries her head higher than she should - and when she gets worried she lifts her head.  We've taught her to drop he head when the reins are engaged - this has been a bit unsettling for me - I must have always ridden high-headed horses because how I feel like she's a peanut pusher, but when I see her riding properly with someone else, she looks normal.  Anyways, when we pick up the reins, through flexion training, we've taught her to wait for the command - a flex, a back or a drop - she drops her head properly then waits.  when we're riding, if she's not set right - too high or too low, a jiggle on the reins corrects this.  

Basically ask her through some means, a jiggle on the reins or something to pick up her head, immediately release when she does even the least bit.  When she leans again, jiggle again.  Being consistent and doing this over numerous sessions will change her habit.  but you cannot expect a one time fix, and you must be consistent.  These critters are teaching me the value of patience, consistency and time.  Sure it seems that first time like that's all you're doing and it never will get right, but then the second time you go out, it's better and better.  If you're not doing it right, and not being consistent and quick enough with the reward, it won't get better.

Good luck!

Answer 5

If she is really leaning in on your hand alot and she tends to be front end heavy - I really suggest first off quieting your hands.  There is always a resistance reaction when you could potentially be asking too much of her face.  Ideally - keep your hands quiet, supple and giving (think of your elbow as an elestic band) and really work on leg.  Every time she leans in on you give a little extra leg to enforce forward movement which in turn causes her to lift. As soon as she lifts, release even more with your contact. What you dont want is a back workout every time and a horse on the fore hand.  If your leg isnt helping - try working through poles.  Poles really help the lift of the front end. Even raised trot poles. Remember though - your hands are essential here. Quiet, supple and giving hands create a quiet and supple forward movement.  Of course your seat and leg play a part too but I would try some pole work and small raised poles just to help her pick up on her front end more and assist her in using her hind more.  You should see a big difference.  

PS) I would stay away from draw reigns. By the sounds of it Iam going to guess she doesnt need an aid to "lower" her head - she is doing that incorrectly on her own already.

Good luck and happy riding !!! :)

EDIT**

I personally wouldnt suggest making a bit change.  A horse at 4 yrs isnt having "bit" issues just yet.  They havent matured in the mouth at this point. I strongly suggest never using any sort of "curb" or leverage bit as you dont want to try and solve a "hard" mouth with a harder bit (thats not to say that they arent useful...but in this case I dont think this horse needs a harsher bit).  A sensitive mouth will come right up backwards if you dont know what you're doing.  There are just as effective ways to resolve this problem without having to use a stronger bit.

Answer 6

You're going to have to start with trying to find a bit that gets her attention because the only thing to change this is train her to know that it's no acceptable. You've started correctly with the loose ring snaffle, and obviously have the right idea - loose bits are less stable to lean into. It might be a good idea to stray away from the snaffle entirely and try a leverage bit that has a curb chain/strap, because it sends signals other places than the horse's head. A hanging cheek (Filet baucher) may in fact be more effective.