Question:

Help with feeding nigerian wethers?

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It seems like feeding goats is the most contorversial then any feeding of an animal....

I bought 2 nigerian dwarf wethers yesterday. Both are 3 months old and still growing. The breeder was feeding them 1/3 cup 10% all stock feed 1X day and burmuda grass hay 24/7. I have been reading on so many ways people are feeding their wethers that I am so overwhelmed with alll the info. I have been told growing wethers need a 16% feed. Minerals. ACV in water to prevent UC. So should I leave them on the 10% all stock grain the breeders was feeding with the bermuda hay or should I change them to a 16% goat pellet with burmuda hay, loose goat minerals, ACV, baking soda to keep the gut nuetral? How should I feed them when they are grown? The coastal burmuda is not the best hay but thats all the grass hay we can get around here. I am keeping them on the grass hay, ACV, and goat mineral...So I just need to know what I should feed grain wise to keep my guys happy healthy and without stones.

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  1. I've had the best success preventing stones and calcification in bucks and wethers by using a medicated feed that contains aluminum chloride.  This is the trace mineral that breaks up crystals in urine, which is the primary health concern when dealing with males.

    When were the boys wethered?  I try to wether our goats no younger than 2 1/2 - 3 months to give them a chance to start developing.  A little testosterone will cause the urethra to widen slightly and lessen the risk of blockages later.

    Switching their feed can cause scours and bloat, so a gradual switch would be better.  For wethers, I recommend the goat fitter by Showtech.  Medicated with AC and also contains a coccydiosis preventative.  Free choice minerals are a must, and baking soda mixed in with that seems to work just fine.  

    All stock is not my first choice for a feed, but to keep costs down, I will cut it into our feed mix to stretch out the good stuff.  I'll mix 2 bags all stock to 1 bag goat fitter for the boys.  They also really like some cracked corn and dried molasses added in.  My milkers and kids are on a nice textured feed with all stock cut in (can't give milkers medicated).

    All stock doesn't necessarily have the minerals and nutrients that will optimize how your kids are developing, and you'll probably see as they get older that they will eat less volume if they're eating a better quality feed.  Using some better quality feed saves money (and headaches) in the long run.

    As for your hay, start switching it ASAP.  Goats are not grass eaters, and only eat it when that's all that is being offered.    Talk to a local farmer about getting the "junk" bales from the edge of the fields that are full of dock and weeds.  This mix contains better nutrition for them and they LOVE it.  You'll also find you'll get some good deals on those bales, as most growers can't sell those bales to horse owners - I get mine for $3.25 a bale or less.  They also tend to toss grass bales around while they look for the weeds, so you tend to waste alot when feeding grass mixes.

    Hope this helps - you can email me if you need more info.


  2. Actually feeding goats isn't that complicated but some people sure make it so!

    Nothing needs a 16% feed unless you are pushing for weight and growth.  That would be for show animals that won't show well without that extra growth or wethers that are going to be eaten at 4 to 6 months.  I think the 10% feed is more than enough.  I would, however, give it in two or more feedings not just one.

    Baking soda is not needed at all.  It can be helpfull with animals that are being pushed for milk or meat production and are on a high concentrate diet but no other goat needs it.

    I would add the mineral as that's really important.

    Now this is my opinion and the opinion of some other breeders who have more wethers around than I do but it doesn't have any scientific studies behind it.  I do believe that many problems with UC come from the animals not drinking enough water and not getting enough excersise.  Keeping lots of good clean fresh water that is cool in the summer and warm in the winter will do a great deal to prevent UC as will having plenty of room to excersise.  Most pet goats that I've seen haven't gotten nearly enough excersise.  Give them as much room as you can and things to climb on.  That will, again in my opinion, help more than putting something in their food or water or even wethering them later.

    The biggest health problem I see in pet wethers is weight.  They are so often either way too fat or just skin and bones.  Keeping a good grass hay in front of the 24/7, a good mineral mix,  and keeping up with worming and coccidia treatments as needed will keep your goats healthier and happier than continuing to feed grain.

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