Honey on a bit, and what reins should I use?

Question

What type of reins should I use for a loose ring snaffle? When I first started riding I always used split reins, but when I switched to a halter I needed more stopping power so I use a single rein braided leather? Can I still use this, or do I need split reins again?

http://www.horsetackco.com/images/229-2175plaitrein.jpg

Those are the types of reins I used with riding with a halter. Only they didn't have the clip. If I need split reins what type should I get? Like brand and such. Also please nothing too long, my horse is only 14'3 and sometimes the split reins go to his knees.

Last question, I just had someone mention putting honey on a bit to make the horse accept the bit better, and like it? Should I do this?

Answer 1

DO NOT PUT HONEY ON THE BIT! Putting honey on the bit or soap in the grain is cheating. The same kind of cheating that gets elementary school kids and high schoolers sent to the principals officee. Getting your horse on the bit comes from the hind end. You must engage the hindquaters and loosen the topline so the horse can lift his back an naturally drop his head from the arch he just created.

Who ever suggested the honey was ignorant in thinking that putting a horse on the bit only had to do with the bit.

and as for the reins remember you stop the horse not the the reins so what ever rein type works best for you and your horse, i would use

Answer 2

I dont think it batters what reins you use for a certain bit i could be wrong but i dont think it matters whatever works for you

i use a broken bit and braided reings

Answer 3

I don't think it really matters whether you use a single round rein, like the one in the picture link you included, or if you use split reins.  Personally, I would probably use split reins.  That way, if things go wrong somehow and the horse ends up running away with the reins over his head, he won't accidentally step into the rein loop and hurt his mouth.  Also, with split reins, you can use the ends of the reins as a popper if you need to.  However, if you do use your rein ends to pop your horse on the butt, you need to make sure you don't jerk on his mouth at the same time.

I prefer harness leather split reins that are 5/8" wide and 7 or 8 feet long.  Wider reins feel too bulky in my hands, and longer reins are just, well, too long.  You can get split reins that are shorter than 7 feet but I find those harder to handle because there isn't enough weight in the rein ends and the reins are harder to control.  Viewed from the cut side of the leather, split reins that have been correctly cut out of the cow hide should be slightly thinner in the middle and slightly thicker at the tail ends, and the profiles of the two reins should match as closely as possible.  Having ends that are slightly thicker means the reins ends will have a little more weight to them, which will make them easier to handle.  

Why would you switch and start riding with a halter?

I apologize if this is insulting, but it sounds like you need some basic riding lessons.  The type of reins you are using would make no difference in the amount of stopping power you have.  Stopping power comes from correct training.  If you want proof of that, search youtube for "Stacey Westfall freestyle reining" and watch her do sliding stops with no bridle, bareback.  

I'd recommend against using honey on the bit.  As someone else suggested, it might make your horse more focused on getting the treat than on listening to you.  And it isn't a training technique that is going to have satisfactory, long-term results.  

Here's how I teach a horse to accept the bit and bridle:  Start without the bridle.  With a halter on the horse and the lead rope in your left hand and nothing in your right hand, stand on the left side of the horse, facing the same way as the horse, with the horse's left ear near your right shoulder.  Lay your right arm on top of the horse's head, between the ears.  Exert gentle pressure downward with your right arm until the horse lowers his head, even a tiny fraction of an inch.  Immediately remove the pressure of your arm, and praise the horse.  Many horses will "push back" when they feel your arm pressure.  That's OK.  Keep your arm on top of the horse's head and try not to push harder; just maintain the same pressure.  If you immediately take away the pressure as soon as the horse moves away from it, the horse will soon learn that you want it to lower its head when you push on the top of its head with your arm, and that it can get rid of the pressure by lowering its head.  When your horse has learned this lesson, then you can try bridling. In the same position, with your right arm between the horse's ears, holding the crown of the bridle in your right hand and the bit in your left hand, bring the bridle up until the bit touches the horse's lips or teeth.  If the horse raises its head to get away from the bit, just hold the bridle in the same position and maintain pressure with your right arm until the horse brings its head back down.  Some horses will refuse to open their mouths for the bit.  If yours does this, it may help to push your left thumb into the horse's mouth and massage the bar (the spot on the horse's gums where there are no teeth -- this is where the bit will rest when it is in the horse's mouth) with your thumb.  Be patient.  Do not bang the horse's mouth or teeth with the bit.  When the horse opens its mouth, guide the bit gently into the mouth with your left hand while slipping the crown of the bridle over the horse's ears until it is in place.  Be careful not to poke the horse's eyes with the bridle buckles.

Rest a few minutes, then gently remove the bridle without letting the bit drop so that it bangs the horse's teeth.  Then do it all over again.  Do it over and over again until it is no big deal.  Believe it or not, eventually you can teach your horse to calmly lower its head and open its mouth to take the bit from you.  But you must be very careful to make the whole process painless and unexciting.  

Answer 4

I would try without a food bribe first. I always found it made my horses treat nuts and harder to handle cause they were always looking for food instead of listening to me. I answered your other Q, so maybe read that as I went more detailed there.

Good Luck (again) lol

Answer 5

1st question  single reins  and as for the honey on the bit  I hope you have a good horse dentist and lots of money!