How can I gain speed while surfing?

Question

Any tips on how can I pick up more speed while on a (mushy) wave? I've tried pumping and just cant seem to be able to catch up with the breaking part of the wave once it passes me. I am currently riding a 5'9'' retro fish and consider myself beginner/intermediate. Thanks

Answer 1

Your board isn't the best deal for mushy stuff. I ride big twin fish (custom) and I can make it work in the mush, but I would usually switch up to my longboard or my funboard. Depending on the size of the wave, you may want to put a lot of weight on your front foot, and move your back foot a little forward off the tail. If you can accelerate, lean the board over on your inside rail. Basically, when you are caught in the soup, you have to put weight up on the nose and inside rail, or just kick out of the wave. FYI, a mushy, weak wave is not necessarily a broken wave (soup).