How come my bearded dragon runs back and forth in his tank?

Question

Heating- Good

Food- Good

Vitamins- Good

Other animals- Gone

? what can it be ?

Answer 1

When you say good, what are the exact temps?

Answer 2

He/she might be thirsty. Does he/she also have water? If you give him/her lettuce occasionally, that usually has enough water, but not always. I'm not sure what you mean by "good" with the temperature, but reptiles need a shady place to cool off and a lamp to heat up, not just one temperature. If all else fails, it could just be that he's/she's an active little lizard! Good luck. :)

Answer 3

Sometimes they do that when they see something they want, Is it looking outside or is it looking straight ahead? If its looking straight ahead idk whats the problem but if its looking out of his tank its probably something he wants. =] Hope i helped

Answer 4

He runs because He Can.

Answer 5

Well, my first question to this would be how large is the tank, and how large is the beardie?

If he's feeling cramped/bored - he'll do that.  Has he possibly outgrown his environment?  Running back and forth usually means he wants out cause something is lacking in his environment (heat; food; proper exercise space, etc).

Next, I'd ask how long have you had him, and how long has this been going on?

You also didn't mention lighting.  Is your beardie getting some direct sun (never put him on the ground and UVB can't pass through glass/plastic, so use a wire cage outside, or hold him - be sure you don't cook him), and are you using a good reptile safe source of UVB, and calcium with D3?

Depending on age; how varied are the insects you are offering; are they gut loaded; are they the right size; and how many, and how often?  By good diet - is he getting a large variety of fresh, clean fruits and vegetables daily, as well as the insects?

I'll post a basic recipe for gut loading insects.  I'll also paste a few links you can check out, but please note my disclaimer:

--Please do not keep your lizard(s) of any age on play/repti sand or loose substrate.  Impaction and bacteria issues are real and serious – and can result in death.  Consult your reptile veterinarian for their opinion.--

GUT LOADING CRICKETS for REPTILES:

The number one problem:

Dried up and malnourished pet store crickets and mealworms. These food items are essentially useless. A dehydrated and unfed cricket contains almost no nutrients at all; refrigerated mealworms are even worse. A lot of the variety in nutrients found in wild insects is actually in the stomach content - usually plant material. We need to duplicate this to provide the best for our reptiles; without the risk of illness/disease/parasites which can result from feeding our pets wild insects.

Please note that wax worms, while fattening, are not nutritious.

Basic Dry/Staple Cricket Food:

Equal amounts of dry Iguana food, dry dog food, chick starter mash, oatmeal (you can add dry baby food wheat/rye/barley, etc. as well; even shredded wheat - no sugar).

Grind these items together.  Place in a small lid/bowl for the crickets to eat.  Store the unused portion in the refrigerator or freezer, until needed.

Supplement daily with one of the following: sweet potato, bananas, zucchini, oranges, carrots, strawberries, assorted squashes (acorn, yellow, etc.), grapefruit, green beans, apples, kale, spinach, cactus pads, and just about any other nutritious item you can think of (do not use white/yellow potatoes - these are starchy and only good if used as a moisture source during shipping, and NEVER use Avocado - it's poisonous to most animals).

Provide the dry food and kale at all times (kale is readily available during the winter months, too), rotating the other food items through in succession. The key is variety, and to provide an assortment of varying nutrients. What you are trying to do is offer your reptiles crickets with guts 'loaded' with fresh foodstuffs.

The crickets should be gut loaded for 1-2 days prior to offering them to your reptiles.

Also, provide fresh clean water in a lid/bowl, adding a sponge or folded paper towel to prevent drowning.

  

Don't offer more crickets than the reptile(s) will consume within: 1.) a few hours if it’s a lizard, salamander, frog/toad, or 2.) a few minutes, if it’s a water turtle, so you know the crickets will still be full of the good stuff when eaten.

The crickets should be dusted (shaken in a plastic bag gently to coat them) with vitamins (keep these refrigerated) and calcium D3 powder 2-4 times a week, depending on the age of the reptile.

Be sure to remove any uneaten crickets so that they do not soil your pet's environment/water or bother your pet, once it is full.  Crickets CAN turn the table - and feast upon your pet! Or aggravate them, causing stress and even cessation of eating.

Also be sure the crickets are the correct size for the reptile.  The cricket should be the same size long as the reptile’s head is wide.

I hope this has been helpful.

Answer 6

i know... its trying to get out! put fish tank backgrounds on all visible sides and it wont know theres another area out side... worked for mine!