How do I drive this boat??

Question

We just bought our first boat, a 19ft. open bow 1983 Bayliner Capri. I have never driven a boat and my husband is only a little more knowledgable than I am about boats. Can you give me step by step how to drive it once we get it in the water? He has gas-flooded it twice, so it's my turn to try. Also any tips on boats would be greatly appreciated. Oh and this is for a small lake so I'm too worried about the crappy crafting of the boat. Thanks!!

Answer 1

First off, if you have a friend that is an experienced boater, see if you can arrange them to come with you for your first or second time taking it out.  There is no substitute for a friend offering unlimited experienced answers and advice for boating.

Inboards or I/O's handle the choke automatically.  They use a throttle only button on or near the shift lever that allows you to increase the throttle enough to get it started.  You push and hold that in, then move the shift lever forward a small but significant amount before starting.

Try starting the engine, does the engine catch at the shift lever's position?  If not, move the shift lever a VERY small amount forward.  Try starting it again, if it won't start, repeat this process one or two more times at MOST.  

If not successful, move shift lever back to neutral, hold throttle only button, and move the throttle lever forward a small amount.  Repeat entire process.

If successful, while the throttle only button is engaged, keep the engine at about 1000 to 1400 RPM for about 1 or 2 minutes to warm it up.  After that, lower the idle throttle down completely, then back the boat up.

Secondly, get fully informed on all boating laws and regulations where you live.  This is not something to take lightly, make sure you understand and comply with it 100%.  Boating fines and penalties tend to be much more strict than vehicle violations, especially with being legally intoxicated while driving a boat.

Third, never under ANY circumstances run a boat without water running through the cooling system.  Also, any boat with an inboard engine must be winterized and dewinterized, or pay many thousands in replacement and installation costs.

Fourth, find a good reputable certified service shop for your boat engine.  Ask the experienced boating friend on what's needed for regular boat maintenance and what is not.  This way you don't get stuck paying for expenses that are not needed.  Then go in with focused minds to several service shops or dealerships certified in servicing your boat's engine.

Do NOT take your boat with you when shopping around different service shops or dealerships.  This costs more fuel and is a big pain to do, take a fuel efficient car instead.  Keep the discussion short and simple, do not budge on this.  Leave no room for them to explain about extras or their new line of boats or etc, etc.  Follow these steps.

#1. Only provide the details about the type of drive system (OB or I/O), serial number and/or model number, the manufacturer of the engine, the horsepower, and the year made when shoping around.  It doesn't matter if the boat is made by Bayliner or by "Stupidcraft" so don't tell them the boat manufacturer's name when just shopping around, the drive system info is all that matters.

#2.  Ask the golden question:  "What maintenance needs does my boat need?"  Compare what they tell you to what your experienced boating friend tells you, research, and decide.  Ask about the shop rate for all service work, and ask if and how long all major service repairs are warrantied?

#3.  Comfortability factor, does your conversation with the marine technicans feel transparent and very helpful on explaining your questions and service recommendations?  If you feel uneasy or get that suspicious instinct, make a mental note but finish checking them out and go on.  When you've gone to enough of them and looked over all the info enough, you can start narrowing your choices down.

I drive 40 miles to get mine serviced, I could get it done in only 11 miles, but speaking to their sales and service reps felt like a deep freezer.  Where I go, there is usually a Merc tech close and available to speak with about questions.  They don't BS, and they've got a competitive shop rate too so I don't hemorrage money.

Answer 2

It would be best if you both take a Coast Guard course or equivalent> Learn the rule of the water ways> And the ways of the boat and who it works> have a qualify person go over the boat before you use it as having problems an towed in will make it not fun> Have all the CG equipment & life jackets for all>

Answer 3

Need a description of the engine before we can tell ya how to crank it. inboard, outboard, or I/O?  Year, make, horsepower?

At no-wake speed (idle), it'll drift a bit & take awhile to respond to corrections of the wheel.  Remember you don't have brakes.

When you get to the edge of the no-wake zone, first make sure the motor is trimmed all the way in, then push the throttle all the way forward.  The boat will surge ahead, the bow will rise as the stern digs into the water and the boat pushes the bow wave out in front.  You won't be able to see what's in front of you for a few seconds, but as the engine develops power, it'll climb up out of the hole and the bow will drop.  At that point, you start trimming the motor out a little at a time, giving the boat a second or two to respond, keeping an eye on your tachometer.  When you reach the point where any more trim makes the RPMs drop instead of rise (the boat goes slower instead of faster), that's your optimum trim angle.  Trimming out takes more of the boat and motor out of the water;  less drag therefore more speed.

Don't make sudden movements of the wheel at high speed.  Slow down for boat wakes and rough water until you get a feel for how it responds.  Generally, it'll be smoother riding to cross big waves more or less parallel.

If you want to cruise at a more fuel-efficient speed, start out at full throttle as described above, and back off the throttle after the boat is on plane.

It differs from driving a car in that there's no streets, so another boat can come at you from any direction.  Google "coast guard inland rules of the road" and learn what to do in a crossing situation, also the rules about navigation lights and operating in traffic.

Stop to prepare for launch before you get on the ramp (transfer stuff from truck to boat, remove transom tie-downs, put the plug in, etc.) instead of taking up time on the ramp.  

Pull away from the ramp to prepare for the trip home.

Take as much time as you need and no more, but no less either.  Pay no attention to rude boaters who try to rush you along -- rushing just leads to costly mistakes.  We were all newbies once.

Did I mention don't forget the plug?  I have a strict rule -- once a transom tie is in my hand, I can't set it down for any reason until the plug is in.  At least then the boat can't leave the trailer without the drain plug.

Answer 4

45 Cal has a great answer.  You both need to take a boater's safety course even if your state or local does not require it.

Here is an online site you can check out:

http://www.boat-ed.com/

I would also suggest that you get some one to go over the boat, sure you all know some one else that boats and most would be happy to help show you how to operate you boat.

Bayliner's have a bad reputation for quality.  For the price they are not that bad and you should enjoy it for learning about boating.

Good Luck to both of you and Boat Safe! !