How do I frame an incline to pour concrete?

Question

I'm going to pour a ramp from a flat pad to the floor of my shed. An area of apx. 8 Ft. wide, 4 Ft. long, and from flush on the pad to apx. 5 Inches at the floor to the shed.

Answer 1

realize that in order for the concrete not to crack it will have to be min 4" in all areas. that would mean that the high end would have to be 9", and the low area would have to be sunk in the ground. it also needs to be re-inforced with rebar and remesh. just rip down either 2x10s or 3/4" plywood to form the sides and back of your concrete form. re-inforce by pounding 2x4s(more if using plywood, or double the plywood) into the ground on the outside and s***w into the sides. then just screed across the top of the top of the slanted frame.

Hope that helps.

Answer 2

u need to dig down so you have 6 in. to work with in all areas. add 2 in. sand. rent a push compacter and make a couple passes. use 2*10's as forms with stakes every 4 feet max. using a "chalk line" snap lines at grade. start a few small nails here and there on your line so you can keep track of it once concrete gets on your forms. let the crete company know as far in advance as possible so they can time your delivery with another in your area(hopefully avoiding a minimum delivery charge). let them know you are pouring on an incline and you'll need it thick. if you mix by hand you are probably looking at 30+ bags and thats a lot of mixing! be sure to put a foam buffer between old & new crete. store can show u. good luck!

Answer 3

Use 2x12s for the forms from the pad to the shed. Use something like a straightedge and pencil/pen to mark a level increase on the inside of the forms and, when you pour in the concrete, use your trowel to level it to that mark.

Or, if you have a Skil or table saw, you can mark the correct level on the forms and just cut the forms to the correct shape, and smooth the concrete to the tops of the forms.

Answer 4

You should not be "pouring" concrete for this job, You should mix it stiff enough to allow you to "pack" it into the channel formed by the two suitable lengths of timber creating the sides of you "mould". Suitable stiffness is easy to determine by experimentation at the outset. It should be wet but fairly difficult to beat down into a smooth surface.