How do I get back in the scene?

Question

So I've been rock climbing for about 6 years now. I've had multiple injuries related to climbing (i.e. Torn tendons, muscles, stress fractured ribs, sprained ankles, etc.) I lived in Texas for a long while, climbed with the infamous #1 National team "Team Texas". Moved to Florida, got out of climbing, tried to get back in competition shape, qualified for bouldering nationals, but then got a really bad case of mono.

I was reading someone's question about bouldering nationals and I realized I sorely miss competing.

How do you suggest I get back in shape, back in the scene?

I'm no n00b, I've been trad climbing, I've done quite a bit of outdoor leading, bouldered down in Hueco a bunch.

Bouldering is definitely my thing, considering I'm still not really over my fear of heights.

Also, any suggestions to limit injuries this time around?

What sort of cross training do you suggest? I'm not used to not having a coach, but I don't have the knees to run.

I have access to the ocean and a local gym. Not rocks here in Florida though.

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Thanks.

Answer 1

You have probably climbed more difficult routes than most of us here have ever done, so we may not be able to help much.

I would make one suggestion that helped me when bouldering injuries started to get me down. Try doing a lot more warm up than you think would be required - almost to the point that you are tired from doing problems 2-3 levels below your ability - then rest for a while. Then try working your current "project" - I always found that I would stop before injuring myself when I had already worn myself out a little first.

Good Luck

Answer 2

How about a muscle recovery supplement like glucosamine or MSM?  I've used it before after tough climbing stints, works really well and helps you get up to par quicker. Once I did a 5 day ice climbing/winter camping trip which was exhausting for many reasons.  I took some of my friend's supplement on the way home, and the very next day did my best ice lead to date.  Another time I took it after a brutal 2 days of sport climbing when I was not in shape for it.  Really seemed to help, and climbing the next weekend was like being in a whole new body.

By the way, I gotta say that 6 years isn't long to be climbing, and you can beat that fear of heights yet.  You really haven't trad climbed until you've felt that effortless sense of movement, free of fear, while on the sharp end.  Most people reach a point where they are too old to compete, especially in bouldering which is notoriously hard on the body.  When you reach that point, trad climbing will be there for you lol.

Edit:

IC...you're just a baby lol!! You can do anything you want, you're just coming into your prme.  Perfect time to get serious about climbing.  You need to start slow since you've been prone to injuries.  Warm up, and stretch every tendon in every joint of every finger before and after climbing.

Answer 3

There is a lot to be done here... since you have already had extensive injuries slow and steady will win the race. You will want to throw yourself at problems and routes at the difficulty level you used to climb, resist this temptation as much as possible. I stopped climbing for about a year, when I returned my technique was there but strength wasnt. For the finger tendons, start doing exercises that not only strengthens squeeze but also release. Balance in the hand muscles will allow you to protect those areas.

Swimming is a great exercise for climbers. Low impact resistance. Plus it will work your lungs as well. Which will be great for the hikes to the crag. Ocean swimming will definitely toughen you up. Plus running on the beach is lower impact than pavement, and much more difficult.

Different types of pull-ups and pushups will help the shoulders and pecks for when you need to do a power move. A buddy introduced me to what he calls "frenchies" which is a full chin, hold for 5 count, then lower 45 degrees and hold, lower to 90 degrees and hold, lower to 135 and hold, all the way to a dead hang and go again. This will work the "lock off" strength that is good for bouldering.

Foot work foot work foot work. I have climbing buddies that can kick my rear in pull ups, but I beat them 9/10 times doing add-on and such. Why? My footwork is far superior. The best key to footwork is core strength: abs and lower back. That will allow you to transition body weight. Yoga types of exercises will help get your core and balance back into shape. Slacklining on the beach will too, plus you wont have to worry about twisting your ankles as much.

Start with the basics (wax on, wax off) and build those muscles back into shape. Late teens are a great time to get into this sort of activity b/c your body will be very willing. But be smart. Dont push too hard or those old injuries will be right there again... especially in the pulled muscles and tendons...

Lastly, diet... make sure you are eating the right things to optimize strength weight ratios.

Answer 4

Purchase the book "Training for Climbing' by Eric Horst.  Website: trainingforclimbing.com

He thoroughly maps out how to get in top climbing shape while avoiding injuries and also how to conquer the head games (fear of falling)

Climb on.  Otherwise, drive up to Sandrock, AL and climb with my friends.