How do I lay a tile floor in the bathroom?

Question

And also how do I cut it around the toilet?

Answer 1

Here are a few links to see tile installed:

This is video #1 to review:

http://www.videojug.com/film/how-to-tile...

It will tell you everything you need.

I think you would want to have the toilet on the tile as opposed to under the tile - that way if you have a leak you can see it easier before it becomes a more expensive situation / or health hazard - thus leaking under the tiles and you don't know it.

Here are other resources:

http://www.thisoldhouse.com/toh/tile

http://design.hgtv.com/bath/landing.aspx...

http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/wcs/stor...

http://www.instructables.com/

(search under home)

Answer 2

AHESIVE, CAULK, MORTAR, RUBBER TROWEL, TOOTHED TROWEL, TILE CUTTING SAW(WATER SAW) TAPE MEASURE, CHALKLINE, UNDERLAYMENT, NAILS...YOU MAY WANT TO TAKE A CLASS AT LOWES OR HOMEDEPOT.  IT WILL GIVE YOU ALL THAT YOU NEED AND HOW TO DO IT...ALSO ASK.COM GOOD LUCK

Answer 3

Some great answers, but why would you buy tile before you check on the total job items needed.

Isnt that the cart before the horse?

Let the pros do it.

Answer 4

Everything Mistress D said plus BACKERBOARD

Answer 5

you'll need to buy mortar mix like versabond, probably a 1/4 inch trowel needs a toothed edge, you'll need backer board which is cement board and screws for that, tool to cut backerboard specifically, spacers probably 1/4 inch, a wet saw you can buy one for about $70 if you look hard enough, tape measure, grout, rubber float for grout, grout sealer, a tub to put mortar mix in is easier than using a bucket, knee pads if you want them. Plus, you don't cut around the toilet you measure and cut so the toilet fits on the tile but it doesn't cover the hole. First you should measure the backerboard and cut it with the special tool for cutting backerboard . After you have it all measured and cut you should lay down mortar with your trowel, Look online and you can get how to videos to show you mortar consistancy. lay down your backerboard and then s***w it down into the floor. You need to let this sit for a couple of days. Then you can lay, measure, cut tile and then mortar it down as you did the backerboard, don't forget to use spacers and start with small sections. After you dry lay tile when taking it off take a pencil and mark rows with letters and numbers 1a 1b, 2a etc, it will make it much easier. Then wait a couple days to grout, grout should be like peanut butter, wait a few days and then apply sealer. Good luck. This site might help too. Use the search bar at the top BIG help on here.

http://www.johnbridge.com/vbulletin/inde...

Answer 6

I tile every day of my life, and first of all Pull the toilet to replace after the fact.

   I'll assume you have ceramic tile.

Thin Set, Poly blend (SANDED) mortar

Poly blend Grout

You may not need caulk, and I never caulk around a toilet

New wax ring with a rubber flange embedded, to account for the height change of approx. 3/8 to 7/16 difference

Obviously tools

Grout sponge, and rubberized applicator

1/4 grout lines rubber spacers to set the tile shaped like a (+) sign

   I prefer concrete backer board substrate, but if the floor is stable, and Plywood, that is acceptable, Not MDF substrate. Adding concrete backer board almost demands that you remove any cove base, and consider door clearance. The loss of floor to ceiling height won't be otherwise noticeable, but will equate to nearly an inch once the tile is set.

   Snap two lines perpendicular or at least measure to some center point. That allows that any Cuts, can either be equal size on opposing walls, or perhaps not be needed at all.

   I save the cuts install for last. Keep that 1/4 from a tub, vanity, and walls. I also remove cove base molding to replace after the fact.

   Use a 1/4 notched/tooth trowel for the Thin set, no voids, work OUT from the point farthest into the room, even if only in a small sq. ft. area at a time.

   Use the spacers for obvious reasons, in distance apart and to maintain straight grout lines, AND to swipe out any excess Thin set, Clean the tile surface If neccesary, as you lay the tiles.

   You don't list size of the room or size of the tiles.

   You can tile up to, as close to the toilet/sewage drain as possible.

   Allow 24 hrs. dry time, remove spacers, mix and apply grout, using the trowel/squeegie, diagonal to the grout lines. I prefer both mortar and grout, mixed to a consistency of mashed potato. Grout sets faster than thin set, so slaking and stirring should be considered, but again, work small areas and amounts at a time.

   Sponge grout, with the proper sponge, hardly damp in the first stage of wiping, then as the grout sets, you can slightly increase the moisture, and quit probably after the third sponging, allow dry/set and what's left is Dust, easily wiped after the fact.

   Added thought. Cutting. I have all the various tools, but a Diag. Grinder with a Diamond blade is sufficient for a small amount of cuts. Investing in a wet saw, or score type cutter/snapper, is a waste in your case.