How do different fabrics influence the construction of patterns?

Question

How does the increasing variety of materials & the use of stretch fabrics effect the construction of patterns?

Answer 1

People have written whole BOOKS about this sort of thing!  Briefly:

The way a fabric drapes influences what it looks like made into garments: those with a softer hand drape more than stiffer fabrics and are more suitable for certain garments.

The thickness of fabric also helps to influence what you can do with it: thicker fabrics tend to drape less well, and are more suited to a more tailored look.

Cutting things on the bias rather than the straight grain can add a liquid element to such fabrics as silk charmeuse, giving that amazing look perfected by Vionnet.  Bias cutting any fabric will alter the hand and the look of a garment, and thicker bias cuts such as tweeds will mold more readily to the shape of the body.

Stretch fibers such as Lycra/Spandex are a whole new ball game, and their uses in both under and outer layers, in both knits and woven fabrics is increasing.  Very often, in woven shirt fabrics and suitings, it is used to give the fabric better recovery rather than actual stretch: 'seating' and bagging of skirt and trouser seats and knees becomes less of a problem in very fitted tailored garments, for example.  In knits they allow for stretch and recovery coupled with figure hugging closeness, achieved with 'negative ease' for sportswear and other form-fitting uses.

Modern wicking fabrics, especially fine knits, have become standard in base layers for outdoors clothing, and have been used for many years by companies catering for extreme sports and expedition, travelers, and explorers: their easy-wash and superior fast drying times make them excellent for use in camps off the beaten track.

Mixing fibers gives some amazing effects, and lends more traditional fabrics some of the elements of the new products  while retaining the best of the old.

For actual cutting and construction, the way a fabric behaves, combined with what you want it to look like and how you want it to behave in use (for laundry, stretch, etc) will influence the way you put the garment together.  If you want rigid seams, you do it one way, if you want the seams to flow and stretch, you do it another.  How much the fabric frays will also influence what you do with the seams and other construction details.

For more on how to use fabrics, and what is best for which type of clothing, take a read of these:





Sewing for the Apparel Industry by Claire Schaeffer (Paperback - Jan 2001)



The Art of Manipulating Fabric by Collette Wolff (Paperback - 1 Oct 1996)

Fashioning Fabrics: Contemporary Textiles in Fashion  by Elyssa Da Cruz and Sandy Black (Paperback - 25 May 2006)



Fibre to Fabric 2nd (Trends in Textile Technology) by Hazel King (Paperback - 11 April 2008)

Fabric Savvy: The Essential Guide for Every Sewer by Sandra Betzina (Spiral-bound - 5 Aug 1999)

This is just a small selection of what is available.

Answer 2

Just look what elastics did for waistbands. It certainly increases the uses and applications of fabrics, but as for the patterns on those fabrics, I would say that that is only limited by the materials ability to take dyes or other application methods and chemical coloring.

Answer 3

Our answers won't help. The teacher will see that they have nothing to do with what was covered in class, and will know you cheated.

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