How do i fix a leaking pipe in a solid wall??

Question

We have a solid wall house and have noticed a salt/fungus build up and bubbling paint on an internal wall - -i am almost sure it is a leaking pipe and is happening in several place along a wall (on the opposite side of the bathroom). Do we need to break away all the paster/stucco and replace the pipe? I am assuming it is copper pipe embedded in the wall?? It is a South American 40yr old house. -Thanks :-)

Answer 1

http://www.freepatentsonline.com/4096885...

Answer 2

It is either a leaking pipe (probably at a joint connection) or more likely, a leaking valve.  If it is the valve and/or valve body that is leaking you might be able to replace the valve cartridge.  That is the least expensive solution.  If you take off the cover plate on the valve, (after removing the valve handle) you might be able to shine a light into the wall and see any leaks while you run the water.  If neither of those things work, then yes, you need to remove some drywall or plaster and fix the problem.

Good Luck

Answer 3

I just had the same problem and my husband and I fixed it ourselves.  Cut out the area of drywall surrounding the leak, you will know where it is because it will be damp or mildewed in the area.  Next, call a plumber.  Even if you can see the leak at a joint, you probably don't have the sautering equipment you need to fix it properly.  You can buy it though for about $400.

After the plumber fixes the leak, then cut out ALL of the wood that is rotted or wet. You will need to replace it so it doesn't cause dry rot later.  The supplies you need to get are:

treated 2x4 (green color)

1x4 (#3 white pine is ok)

#6 common nails

#10 common nails

1 1/4" drywall screws

blue fiberglass drywall tape

joint compound

here's  what you do...

cut out all wood that is effected

cut to fit new treated 2x4 and put in place

use 1x4 on top of new 2x4 extending about 6-8" past the new meets old wood joints and nail in with #6 nails

If vertical 2x4s are also affected then cut out minimum amt of rotted wood that you can and replace with new 2x4

make reinforcement with 1x4 and nail down very well, extending past the new/old wood joints

if any diagonal braces with 1x4 are rotted, then replace, brace and use #10 nails

cut to fit drywall tape

smooth joint compound over and sand until smooth, making sure that no blue tape is showing through.

that should do it, good luck!

Answer 4

I'm only farmiliar with US building codes, but if it's a solid wall then yes you'll have to break out the plaster/stucco to replace it.  one "trick" is to use a steel plate about 3 feet (1meter) long and the thickness of the wall hammered in just above the part needing replaced, and working the pipe in sections.  If you're doing it yourself it will honestly probably be faster to replace the entire wall with a standard stud and drywall wall (assuming it's a non load bearing intereior wall).  One other thing it could be is sealant in the bathroom, however if there is mold and mildew, it's always best to re-work the wall along with re-sealing the bathroom.  Hope that helps.